I have been working with this laser for about two weeks. I have been able to cut things like paper and card stock but it does not seem to be putting out anywhere near full power.
I checked the mirrors, and I have checked the focal length. I read that the vendor settings in the Ruida controller only affect the “pulse” function, and that the ruida defaults to the low power setting when the machine is moving at speeds slower than 10mm/sec. Any pointers would be helpful. Thank you,
Is it equipped with a current meter?
Analog is probably the easiest to read but a digital one will work…
Do you have a good ‘dot’ produced at all mirrors, centered?
Clean mirrors/lens?
Vertical alignment from m3 (mirror 3 or the head) to the table?
What kind of a dot will it produce on the bed…?
Did you do a ramp test to ‘see’ what the focal distance really is?
The ‘Max’ power setting on the Ruida console will set your ‘pulse’ power.
When your ‘Start Speed’ is exceeded, the laser will increase power as the speed increases to Max power setting on the layer, not what’s set in the controller.
Make sense?
Yes, but, I believe I have tried all this. What does the “laser set” function on the controller do" it says “continue” and has a box labeled “ms” next to where it says “continue” no idea what either of these are. I think the ruida may not be configured correctly. I have not been able to access either factory or default para as the rd8888 password does not seem to work
I am going to check and see if the laser is somehow out of focus, then I think I need to see if the psu potentiometer is set correctly. I used the “pulse” function on the controller and that punched a hole through cardboard in a few tenths of a second. then I set the software for 30 mm/sec travel at 50% and it did not cut through the cardboard.
You can highlight a portion of my response and click on ‘Quote’, it will place the question in highlights like this
The ‘laser set’ is for the ‘pulse’ button. If it’s continuous, the laser stays on until you release the button.
Otherwise you set it for the duration of the pulse.
Doesn’t matter what ‘laser set’ is, the pulse power or pwm % power is set via the Maximum button on the controller.
These controllers operate a little different from the console than from a layer.
Power/speed is set on the cut/layer.
When engraving or cutting, the machine can’t stop and go the other direction instantly. You can set a layer for a maximum and minimum power range. As the machine slows to change direction it will adjust the power with this range.
Don’t know, that’s why I’m asking… You have a laser, what kind of a dot would you expect?
You are on it with the ‘looks like a crisp dot’ which is what you want. How big is this ‘dot’?
I think you’re going too fast and the end result will be confusion between us both. Don’t get in a hurry you will just break something.
We’ll get you going… hang in there…
Most of the stuff you would need to modify is available via Llightburn Gui interface ‘Edit → Machine Settings’. Don’t forget to save the current configuration as a ‘factory fresh’ configuration file. I have multiple configurations depending on what I’m doing. All of this can be done via the gui.
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I think you would feel better if we got it to cut, what do you think?
That means some details about your setup and how you ensure the vertical alignment is on. Most of these Chinese heads, it’s difficult to determine alignment as you can’t get in there.
One way to tell vertical alignment is to remove the lens so you have a tube with no lens. A piece of paper or something you can mark with low power. I sometimes use a piece of plywood.
Raise the bed till the paper or whatever is touching the tube.
If possible use a pencil and draw around the tube. This helps to determine if it’s centered. Some people have put modeling clay on the table and the tube leaves an imprint…
Fire the machine for a short duration, just enough to make a brown mark.
Now lower the bed 4 or 5 inches. Is the mark in the center and looking OK?
Fire the laser again. The two marks should be in the same place… or very close.
Sometimes you have to pulse if multiple times to see the spot, if the duration is short.
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