A couple newbie wood burning questions

I’m not really new to lightburn but I am new to doing alot of wood engraving and cutting, although I have done some. I guess I am just surprised at the amount of debris and resin left on both the laser ‘cone’ (unfortunately I have an Ikier pro max), and on the honeycomb bed. The lens is spotless, and always has been, but it’s housed inside a cone that also has the air assist in it, and then after is the ‘protective’ shield for the laser beam itself. I assume it’s normal for soot to build up and blow down on the wood, staining it after multiple useage. I worry about unplugging the 2 connections each time to remove the laser head. Not to mention tne 4 screws that have to be removed and replaced each time in order to clean it. The connections on any laser seem iffy and easily broken after multiple disconnects Has anyone found a ‘hack’ around this? Maybe snip the wires and add an easier quick disconnect?

Also, my honeycomb bed gets nasty with the resin from burning wood now. Is there a better way to clean it than wiping it down with rubbing alcohol, besides submerging it, that people use? I mainly did just painted and etched tiles before with my 5 and later 10 watt laser. Pretty new to cutting and engraving alot of wood. I currently am just using a really cheap 4" exhaust fan for venting in my 37.5" x 37.5 x approx 14" enclosure. Would a larger in-line duct exhaust make a big difference? I’d appreciate any advice. Thanks guys.

I’ve found that the single use alcohol wipes work well for things I don’t want to take apart, and I’ve heard of people using spray on oven cleaner (in a well-ventilated area of course) to remove the schmutz that builds up on the honeycomb. YMMV

I am not advocating the use of harsh chemicals, but automotive brake cleaner in a spray can is pretty good for removing oily or resin films.

I have a honeycomb with very little wood use so far. When it comes time to clean it, I will let you know if my advice is any good.

It’s my go to for barrel cleaning, it gets a lot of the carbon fouling out. I’ll have to remember that for next time. Thanks for the tip.

I removed my honeycomb because I got sick and tired of trying to get it clean but…

I bought a square catch pan for under a clothes washing machine large enough to contain the honeycomb. Bought a gallon of “Simple Green”, available many places, laid the honeycomb in the pan and poured the simple green in it. Left it soak overnight then took it out side and sprayed with the garden hose. Takes all the gunk off in and out.

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Retired my honeycomb in less than a week. People think they are great, but I found mine way too much trouble. They don’t really work like you would think…

It was responsible for the worst possible air flow in the machine.

Bought a sheet of rolled steel the size of the honeycomb hole for $12 US. Have alignment holes drilled into it for alignment jigs. I sit material I wish to cut, upon 5mm magnets.

Great air flow and the mess is relatively simple to clean up… Wipe it down… doesn’t stink either…

Honeycomb beds, unless kept clean will be the most likely cause of a fire.

Russ has a warning video on these beds that’s about ~16 minutes in length.

Here’s mine…

Have fun…

:smile_cat:

For us 1sey-2sey makers, a honeycomb will serve its purpose. With anything that even closely resembles production, a honeycomb is obviously a really bad idea.

Walk off and leave a running machine? That is a cardinal sin for laser use.

Fire extinguishers… I have two ABCDK units mounted on the front of my laser cart. Laser in a wooden box, sitting on a plastic cart, inside my house made this a no-brainer decision.

Don’t know what these are… I know what the letters mean…


I seriously recommend you use co2 gas type extinguishers when dealing with mechanical or electrical fire… if possible.

If you use a dry powder type, you will likely put out the fire, in exchange, your machine/electronics will be worthless. If a controller in a box goes up, you have much better chance of putting out with just a small opening with a gas than a powder.

That’s besides the fact that you will inhale this stuff as you’re using it, probably during an emergency…

Most of these have some amount of corrosion to all the parts inside… Covering the mechanical and electrical with a corrosive power, just isn’t a good idea in my deluded brain.

https://fire-extinguisher-guide.com/how-corrosive-is-fire-extinguisher-powder/

I paid ~$125 US for my 5lb co2 extinguisher that I got from a restaurant supply house. As usual the price has increased since I purchased mine… :crying_cat_face:

It’s very very low cost home/hobby insurance that isn’t toxic.

:smile_cat:

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Thanks. I should be able to raise my z axis high enough to just wipe around the outside of cone. That really is where the debris is. Appreciate it.

Thank you. I’ve used simple green before but didn’t realize it would remove resin and creosote. I will give it a try.

I definetely see why acrylics and honeycombs don’t pair well. I imagine same with wood to a lesser degree. Again I am just using a diode, although in theory it is reasonably close to a 60 watt CO2 as CO2’s don’t run at 100% power (or shouldn’t). And I am only cutting 3mm birch plwood atm. That might be worse than solid. I have no idea what the core is made of. I have a steel plate for the base, two 4"X6.5mm tiles on the edges, then the honeycomb bed on top so it has airflow underneath. I sort of need the honey comb because such thin wood is usually warped and I use magnets to hold it flat. Without the honeycomb at all I just get bad flash burns on the back side. I’ll try to think of a better solution. Thank you. And sorry for the multiple replies. I wasn’t paying attention.

What sculpfun laser do you own and how do you figure this?


There is virtually no air movement under material being cut with an honeycomb bed… That’s one of the reasons they become so dirty inside them. It works the same way with whatever you cut, same air movement. Even with air assist, almost no air actually gets through the small lasers kerf.


I do lots of 3mm stuff… 5mm magnets on edge allows for air to flow and most of it appears to condense on the metal plate…so a bit of solvent on a rag and it comes off.

My honeycomb that came with it was aluminum, so magnets didn’t help. With this plate, the standoff magnets stick as do larger magnets I use on the edges to flatten it out…

Unfortunately there are no perfect solutions to all of the variables… just do your best :face_with_spiral_eyes:

This isn’t the best video, rather old also, I think this is 5mm underlayment. You can see the air flow, this is the stock aquarium air source.

:smile_cat:

I do have a sculpfun s9 5.5 watt and a 10 watt head for same frame. This new laser is the Ikier pro max 1. Dual 24 or 48 watt. Purported to run at 900mm/s…48,000mm/min. I am sorry, I need to update my profile to reflect this. I only have one enclosure, so for now I am running solely the Ikier. I’m assuming you place the standoff magnets on the edges and then the ‘holder’ magnets for the wood over those magnets? If they can hold at 5mm of so, and not over the other magnets I need stronger magnets and would appreciate any advice as to which ones to use. I probably didn’t explain well enough. I have the honeycomb sitting 6.5mm above the bottom steel plate to allow some airflow underneath. It may be not enough with my exhaust fan. I do not have the specs on it anymore, but its only a 4" non in-duct ran through approx 10" of vent hose to the outside at rear of enclosure. My enclosure is not airtight by any means. I do not smell any fumes, but just because it exhausts doesn’t mean it does so properly. If 5 or 6mm distance is enough to prevent the back burning on pieces, I’m all for using your method. I’ve had to clean my base steel plate, and it does just wipe off for sure. Thank you.

Them you know what it can do. It is also called a “5 -in-1” extinguisher. It contains deionized water and a fire retardant. That makes it non-corrosive and electrically non-conductive. They claim it is good for oil fires too, but I would be hesitant to go that far.

Spraying my laser, and possibly the house with powder was a total nope. CO2 extinguishers are expensive and have to be periodically recertified. And a 5 Lb. bottle would not suit my portable setup either.

Yeah…If my laser and project caught on fire…the LEAST thing I’d worry about is saving the laser. Umm…$1600 as compared to $300k+? No brainer. Put the damn fire out by any means possible. Umm…most insurance does not cover negligence. As boring as it can get…always monitor burning. Play music…have coffee, beer, cocktails, whatever depending on what time of day, but always be in that room and space, and always pay attention.

Umm. So back to what I asked before, has anyone done a different quick disconnect on a diode laser module? What I mean, is that the connectors are a bit hard to take out, and I’m pretty sure I’ll end up stripping wires or something just trying to disconnect and reconnect. I feel this is one aspect not addressed by any company. There has to be a better way and I’d love to hear people’s work around.
Thanks Guys and Gal’s. I appreciate any and all comments.

Do you have a link to one of these? … I’m always open for a lower cost alternative. More choice I have the more happy I am… :crazy_face:

Tried to google it, but didn’t get much …

:smile_cat:

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If I felt the need to make a service disconnect, I’d probably splice in a Molex Micro-Fit or similar. Small, light, and latching.

Tiny JST-style connectors can’t carry the current required by a 48 W input power laser. Divide 48 W by the 24 V supply voltage and the power / common pins must carry upwards of 2 A. They went to a 24 V supply to cut the current in half compared to the 4 A required from a 12 V supply.

JST SM-series wire-to-wire connectors are rated for 3 A, assuming you’re getting real connector pins rather than counterfeit junk, which is impossible to verify with the usual online sources.

You really need the crimper, because there’s no other way to make a good gas-tight crimp.

Don’t make the common mistake of using two parallel pins to carry more current. When one pin / conductor fails, the other pin will quickly fail, sometimes in spectacular fashion.

Here is one similar to what I bought (link to mine expired). They dropped the “D” rating here, but the content description is essentially the same.

They are small, but even if 2 of them do not kill the fire, it will knock the fire down enuff to get it outdoors… Outdoors for me means thru the sliding glass door to the lanai, where the garden hose is located. Worst case I can just shove it into the pool!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7FWNJBP/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=d874040f4bb9b2ccb29d39ca376caf0b&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a%3Aamzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a&hsa_cr_id=0&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=fc6050d4-172c-4c5f-a9e1-e6ab538a34da&pd_rd_w=TckZ7&pd_rd_wg=r2TGd&qid=1697374192&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_title&sr=1-2-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1

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Guys…it’s a 48 watt OUTPUT laser. I get I lose some wattage from multiple lasers being combined into a single beam, but 48 is not the input… Look it up. Ikier.com. Atomstack recently aquired them and advertise Ikier as their top line products.Jeeze. I’m not that new. Thanks for the suggestions.