I just received by new 100W Argus laser. It came with the standard Chinese air pump, and I want to use an external air compressor. I want to have a dual air assist setup. A relay is currently connected to +24V and WIND on the control board. The air pump plugs into the back of the laser. I believe this relay is what turns on and off the air pump for jobs. Is this correct? I want to wire a low and high pressure dual solenoid system to regulate the air with engraving/cutting jobs. I understand that I need to connect the positive pin of my high pressure solenoid to +24V (pin 6) and the negative wire to pin 5 (WIND). I want to connect the negative side of my second (low pressure) solenoid to pin 4 (STATUS), and I need the positive side also connected to pin 6 (+24V). I also have a status lamp that is connected to the controller as well. Can I simply unwire the relay from the board, and connect the solenoid wires? How do I connect multiple wires to the same pin, as needed for pin 4 (STATUS) and pin 6 (+24V)?
Sounds like you have a handle on it. The current on these is limited to either 300mA or 500mA depending on the document.
How you do it is up to you… Don’t forget to put snub diodes across the coil of each solenoid.
Status goes active (sink) anytime the machine is in run mode.
I have my Status activate the air solenoid that lets full pressure air into the machine. It then goes through a restrictor for low pressure.
When the layer with air assist enabled is executed the Wind sink becomes active and that solenoid bypasses the restrictor.
Wire size within reason, unscrew the hold down. It’s only a split piece of metal that sandwiches the wires. I have three leds with the three anodes going to 24V pin…
I suggest you tin them or put ends on them to simply the installation…
Thank you so much!
What gauge wire do I need to use to wire my solenoids to my controller?
Mine draw <150mA the circuit is limited to 500mA, so figure what you need by a chart… Remember these are 1k ft or 1fkm. I’d guess ~24 gauge depending on length. You could probably go much smaller as it’s rated at 1000 ft, doubt you’re running that far…
Best way is to use relay for switching solenoids. 300mA output is at it’s limit for soleonoid.
I have ultimate air assist from cloudray, that is two way solenoid. But I’m thinking to add another one just for on/off air, when laser is in stand by. No need to blow low air prassure when machine is not working. Ruida RDC6432g has little different names on output pins. I will controll second solenoid and air pump with status output. In case of external compressor, I will use switch for it.
Different names - Wind is called Aux Air?
It should wire up just like in my previous post, 2.
On a Ruida these are pull down active, sink and low active. They are effectively acting like open collector essentially creating a wired or
You can put a switch from the Ruida sink pin and pull it to ground when you need manual control. I used a mosfet to switch mine, but I’d think a mechanical switch should be fine also…
The machine is designed to switch these solenoids. Depending on what Ruida manual you read, it can sink 300 to 500mA. I have helped a number of people with these. Those that have the technical knowledge I ask them about the current draw. I haven’t run into one yet that requires 200mA… Mine are around 125mA…
If this worries you, it’s easy to hook up one of your solenoids to a power supply and mA meter and know what you have.
IMHO, keep the least amount of stuff out of the signal path, hardware or software… KISS principle.
Do include a snub diode for each coil.
It’s my opinion, but of course you get to do what you want…
Yes, aux air on rdc6432g is wind on other ruida controllers.
About relay someone on rdworks forume suggested me, that is wise to use relay for solenoid.
Diode on any solenoid or relay is something must have, if you don’t want to kill controller output.
I wired my solenoids up like I mentioned however, only the low pressure solenoid seems to be working. It’s light emitting diode lights up when I turn the air on Lightburn. I’m not sure why the high pressure solenoid isn’t getting power.
If you are using Status for low pressure and Wind for high pressure, you must enable air assist (Wind) within the Ruida controller.
There seems to be an issue with the solenoids. I took them apart and tested them with a battery and they started working, but only specifically at 40psi, no more no less. That was very strange. I was using a single solenoid connected to 24V and status; however, it wouldn’t always open. I had to tap it to get it to start working. I got a replacement solenoid of a different brand, and I tested it with a battery, and it works. I put it on the laser, and it is not opening with STATUS. I’ve tried connecting it to WIND as well. If I connect it to GND, it opens; however, not with STATUS. That won’t work, though, because it will just always remain open. I have air assist enabled in the Ruida controller. It’s a 24V solenoid, just like the other one. Why is it that the other one worked when tapping it, but this one doesn’t work with the STATUS pin?
If the solenoid is working from 24V to ground, but when connected to the Status or Wind it doesn’t, that means the Ruida isn’t going to ground like it should.
Can you measure the voltage between the 24V and Status or Wind with the solenoid connected to either one.
I think @ednisley had a similar issue where the Status/Wind wasn’t enabled. He’ll have to advise on how to use RDWorks for a fix. I don’t run RDWorks…
It required a combination of controller console and internal config twiddlIng, as in this discussion:
Fortunately, no RDWorks was necessary, so no need to dig out our Token Windows Laptop.
have wind enabled in my controller. It’s the auxiliary air settings in my controller and it’s turned on. Is there something I’m missing?
I used my multimeter to test from the 24V to Status and there is about 21V. I had a different solenoid and it was working correctly, but I can’t use it because it seems to have a short on it. I wouldn’t always open. I would have to tap it to get it started. That’s when I bought and wired this new solenoid. I tested it with a 20V battery and it opened correctly.
Perhaps the other enable in
@jkwilborn and I have a (polite) disagreement on the need for a solid state relay between the controller and the valve, which boils down to my desire to protect the (expensive) controller’s output from electrical mishaps and his desire to eliminate non-essential gimcrackery.
IMo, both of us are right, so you choose how you do it.
A caveat with air valves: “self-piloting” valves require significant air pressure to operate, while “direct acting” valves work without pressure. If you have the former, you must use a compressor, not an air pump, and it must be running before the valve will operate; you can’t bench-test a self-piloting valve without air pressure.
I am using an air compressor regulated down to 40psi when testing.
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