If the all the camera routines would honor the camera settings we set then the chances of a more successful setup would increase.
With that said, I have LED tube lights in my shop and it really blows out the camera image. Even without the black background, its bright and washed out. I turn Auto Exposure off and Auto Brightness off and turn them all the way down and I can get a decent image. I click save settings, but why? It always comes back up with none of my settings and right back in Auto Mode?
Now, if we were able to do that BEFORE going into the Calibrate Lens and Calibrate alignment, things would go so much smoother. But no, it puts everything back in Auto mode.
Next, we all should know that Fill and Lines use different settings, so to have a single speed and power on the Calibrate Alignment is sort of goofy. If I set it where my fill is nice and dark, then line cuts it totally out ruining it, AND then it does it twice? Is there a way to use a Layer setting and allow the calibration marking to let you select what color layer or pen to use?
Calibration of Lens - Use our existing settings for the exposure and brightness, and orientation would be helpful.
Making a DOT pattern in a PDF where it can be printed to an actual uniform size would also help. A PNG in windows 10 will not print to the size you think. A PDF Will. Many folks have complained about this. I find conflicting information on what size it really should be.
PDF is an Easy fix, just do it?
I love the software but sometimes, the issues encountered by most folks could really be avoided.
Oh, whats the deal with my camera window always coming up now tied to the top left side of the screen. It can’t seem to remember where it belongs anymore? I believe it just started that with the latest release.
I know I heard about the rotary warning popping up when you do a calibrate. I’ve seen that also here, seems it’s been addressed.
The exposure and brightness controls are newer than the rest of the camera system. I can add code to save and restore those settings if they’re active.
On a larger CO2 system, usually, but smaller machines often only use one. This was an attempt to keep new users from getting settings overload. It wouldn’t be terribly hard to do both, but it’s also not hard to just set it to 100 mm/sec with relatively low power - The system I most often tested this on was a 100w.
The size of the print is completely irrelevant, honestly. The size of the image within the camera view is what matters. The dot pattern is a standard image file provided with the library we use for the recognition, which is why it’s provided in that format. PNG files contain information about their size, so as long as you don’t set ‘fit to page’ when printing, it will actually print at the original scale.
On a larger CO2 system, usually, but smaller machines often only use one. This was an attempt to >>keep new users from getting settings overload. It wouldn’t be terribly hard to do both, but it’s also not >>hard to just set it to 100 mm/sec with relatively low power - The system I most often tested this on was >>a 100w.
RWS- Have a button called Advanced. Then let you select a predefined layer.
I could take layer Red for example and tweak it so it actually works right. Then go into the calibration, then you have the simple settings or Advanced, click on advanced, use current layer settings, then click ok.
I understand trying to keep it simple.
The exposure and brightness controls are newer than the rest of the camera system. I can add code >>to save and restore those settings if they’re active.
What does Save actually do because every time I go back to the camera settings, it goes back to Auto. Im I doing something wrong?
I haven’t added this yet - I said I can. The Save Settings button stores the X/Y shift and Width/Height adjustments. They affect the alignment, not just the view.