Camera usage, a few questions

I have an 8 MP 170 degrees USB camera and decided to set it up again (didn’t use it for almost a year or so). I noticed that Windows defaults it to 1600x1200 pixels, which I believe is normal. I first tried to calibrate the lens as a fish-eye lens, but that gave me a distorted overlay >

So I tried the normal lens calibration, which went perfect. When is a lens considered a fish-eye lens?

Then I drew a star on a piece of paper, traced it and cut it. The trace is pretty spot on, but the actual cut is off, on the left and at the top of the star, about 1mm (total star is about 75x75mm). see the dim cut line >

Is that within the quality limits? Or can I adjust something so that the actual cut is spot on too?

And where are these fields used for, in the camera control window. I see that it has an effect on the overlay when I add a vaue, it gets wider or less wide etc., but where would people use this for >


Final question, What is so special about the ‘official’ lightburn camera and when will the 80 and 90 degrees camera be in stock again? Is it worth upgrading to that camera?

I searched for answers on these questions in this forum and on the official LB page, but couldn’t find them.

These are for doing any fine tuning of the alignment, if needed. For example, you said your cuts are shifted a little up and left. You could adjust the X Shift and Y Shift values to line those up. It shouldn’t be necessary if the calibration is accurate, but they’re useful sometimes.

A fish-eye lens is one where the image is warped / round, instead of being flat. Most DSLR cameras, for example, even wide angle ones, produce an image that isn’t warped and distorted. Your 170 degree lens is likely a fish eye lens, but they’re a little harder to calibrate.

The only special thing about the LightBurn cameras is that we’ve had the manufacturer tweak the firmware settings so the camera defaults to its highest resolution (2592 x 1944).

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Thx. Do you know when the 80 degrees and 90 degrees cameras will be in stock again?

The next order is being manufactured now, so probably about 2 to 3 weeks before we have them.

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not to hijack the thread, but my camera is mounted directly above the bed, with a 90 degree angle lens, the calibration is a tad confusing because the imagery shows it at a 45 degree angle looking from the back of the bed toward the user.

if the camera is directly above @ 90d, is it just a case of leaving the dots in the center and jumping through or do you have to move them and if so, is there an easy way to identify to where.

The view you’re talking about shows the card held directly facing the camera. You don’t even need to mount the camera in the laser to do the lens calibration part.

The images are intended to show where to put the card in the camera view, not on the laser, because at this point it doesn’t care about the laser, just what the camera sees. You’re moving the card around in the camera view so the software can figure out the distortion caused by the lens.

If you were divide the camera view into the 9 squares of a tic-tac-toe board, you’re trying to place the circles pattern so it occupies one full square. First the center, then top, bottom, left, right, and then, optionally, the four corners.

If you haven’t gone through the camera setup video on YouTube, you should. It talks about all of this and does a better job of explaining than the docs do.

If you go to 3:51 in that video, it talks about the angle of the card, placement, etc. And it talks about the tic-tac-toe board squares too:

this video and the image are exactly what i needed thank you :slight_smile:

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