I can’t seem to get my lines to line up correctly, I’m unsure if this is me doing something wrong in the software or if it’s a hardware issue. I’ve had this machine and rotary for a few years but just never used the rotary since i couldn’t get it to line up correctly.
The Laser is a ComMarker B4 Mopa 60w
The rotary is a D80 from Commarker
The controller is JCZFiber
I’m on Lightburn Pro 2.0.05
The lines/art, no matter what it is I’m engraving, whether the object in the rotary is flat, tapered, rounded etc. doesn’t line up correctly. I usually resort to just using my xTool F1 and the rotary with that when I need to engrave cups but I’d like to be able to use the fiber laser instead.
These are the rotary settings I’m using, the steps per rotation are correct per the documentation with the D80
Using the Test button and a piece of tape to check the rotation works correctly as well. I was using overlap before but changed it to 0 to see if it’d fix my problem but it doesn’t.
So if I hadn’t read your post and just saw the photo, I would say your circumference is not measured/ typed in correctly, or your steps are wrong. If you would, please try 3 capital letters “DEF” about 15mm high with a split of 2.00mm and 0.00 overlap and post a photo. Also, there is one more screen just before you start engraving, please get a screen grab of that. Also, double check that you are rotating on the X axis.
On another forum (totally unrelated to lasers) i came up with a list, called it “Waterboarding”. All the info we keep asking the OP’s for to help get things straightened out. When someone asks a question we refer them to the waterboarding list and ask that they post as much of the information on the list as possible.
Anyway, from what I gleaned from the OP that is a tumbler with a curved line or fill on it that breaks and doesn’t match up at every slice.
Just saw this now, I’ll post a reply following this in a few hours when I’m able, thanks for the reply.
jkwilborn
Jack Wilborn
Leader
I don’t even know what the first photo is in your post. What are you doing on what?
Do you mind posting the .lbrn2 file for us to examine? If not we can work without it, but your issue could be in many places.
I wrap my objects in black masking tape, then run the job at low power. It should be right on the tape.
A better photo or at least a description of what you’re up to would help us help you.
It’s a close up photo of a metal shot glass I’m trying to engrave some artwork on, I was only trying to show that the dark lines very clearly don’t align.
ednisley
Leader
AFAICT, nobody pays the least bit of attention to lists like these:
How to Ask For Help - LightBurn User Guide (text)
VIDEO: How to Ask for Help (video)
Sorry, tried to follow it to the best of my ability, this is the first time I’ve asked for help relating to the software, I can usually figure this stuff out on my own but not the rotary it seems.
This image tells me the tumbler is not moving enough with each split. As we can’t enter a negative split, decreasing the diameter is probably what is needed, or your steps are incorrect. It also looks like you are scanning perpendicular on the letters, instead of (preferred) parallel to the axis, like your oval.
Increase circumference will close up split, Decrease will act like negative split and move splits apart which is what it looks like you need
Increase steps per rotation will also act like negative split and open it up.
This looks a lot closer, hard to say due to focus. Your tumbler looks like has a lot of taper, adds a level of complexity. I assume you are tilting the rotary up to make the top edge level. With a lot of taper you will probably need to reduce the splits, the large split I asked for was just to exaggerate the error. What size lens do you have?
So output center, a 110 lens if you are dead center under the lens with the rotary would be 55, did you determin58 was correct?
If you have enough tower to get a tumbler under the 300 lens you might want to try that, it would be more forgiving but I think the majority of your problem is circumference. Like I said earlier the taper adds some complexity. I would go back to a split size 10 times of your LI, like Line Interval of 0.0254mm and a split of 0.254mm. Taper warp won’t affect the splits. Once you get really close we have some tips to really dial it in. Try rhe 300 lens, don’t forget to change your output center to 150 +/- depending on exactly where your rotary sets.
