Hi all
I am thinking of making some wooden storage boxes for my children’s bedroom. I was looking at sliding lid opening but a little unsure how these are made. I saw some examples on this site www.customcraftltd.com but couldn’t find any plans.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
If you have an idea of what you want and have seen something similar, then just start making it yourself. Try “Boxes.py”, I’m sure you’ll find something you can use there.
Although I’ve made several small plywood boxes (*), using a laser for woodwork puts a hard upper limit on the wood thickness. My 60 W laser tops out at about 20 mm of wood and is much happier under 10 mm. Cleaning the charred edges will require serious effort if you’re fussy.
Little bitty boxes keep things organized:
Unlike a router, a laser is no good for precise pocketing and slotting. The flexible cover slides between guide rails cut from the same plywood and glued to the sides. Their alignment is fussy, but wax along the edges smooths the motion.
Customized drawer organizers are handy:
I made those with TroCraft Eco, which is sort of an upscale chipboard, held together with PVA wood glue.
Anybody with a laser eventually decides slightly scorched dashed-line finger joints are a feature, not a bug. 
(*) None of which approach the “luxury packaging” level.
What do you mean by that? I find that I can make amazing connections with my laser (up to a certain thickness). 
Shallow pockets are certainly feasible, like this pair capturing a 0.5 mm blade in an envelope opener:
Although I haven’t mastered the technique, millimeter-scale pockets for inlays / marquetry definitely work:
But deeper pockets for structural wood joints, like a blind mortise, (probably) won’t work, because a laser doesn’t have the precise depth control of a cutting bit: it won’t stop at a specific depth regardless of the wood density and leave a clean floor. Through cuts, as for tenons, in thicker wood won’t have the parallel sides required for a good joint.
Similarly, I was thinking of making a slot with a precise width and depth to guide a sliding lid or drawer. Raised rails along the edges, like for the flexible lid on that cupcake box, would surely work better than a laser-cut slot.
Finger-joint boxes made from thinner wood work wonderfully well and, when that construction is Good Enough™, I loves me some laser cutter action! 
Thanks for the explanation, now I know what you mean.
I was thinking mostly of simple finger joins, which I do quite a bit, up to 6mm. I have made very few pockets, some in acrylic, and you are right that it is not optimally made with a laser.
your inlay is beautiful
Truth be known, all my mistakes cancelled out on that test.
…(that’s why we like it, isn’t that correct?)