BTW: Did you add on that meter, or did it come with the supply? If it came with the supply, what is the Brand and Model # please. Thanks.
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YJG100W power supply laser output meter. This is what your talking about right?
sorry the model no. is MYJG100W-Y-1
My Max and Min power settings on the machine are set at 60%. I’m not sure where to set my axes “start speed”. the cut layer setting you shared with me earlier that you use for cutting 3mm Baltic Birch isn’t strong enough it seems for my machine for some reason and I run a 100w Omtech. I feel I’m missing something in the settings somewhere that is keeping this machine from operating at its full potential
Lightburn has ‘Edit → Machine Settings’ where the internal controller settings exist. Lightburn reads from the controller when the ‘machine settings’ are invoked. You should ‘save’ it at this point, this gives you a ‘factory fresh’ settings backup.
Any modifications you make will require you to ‘write’ it back to the controller… Might want to save separate files as you personal modifications progress. I have a few of them…
myjg60w-y-1 if you can’t read the placard.
Digital meter in the power supply came with the machine. The analog meter in the case was a DIY.
Good luck
How do I order the doHickey?
My two cents …
Lots of folks here have a ton of practical experience. It would help greatly to see a video and post your Lightburn file. I’m sure someone will notice something before you end up buying a bunch of parts and hoping for the best.
First thing I’d do would be to verify the focusing lens is properly secured within the tube/nozzle. Verify the focusing lens is clean and free of damage. I would then clean the laser tube’s output end which is often neglected but over time does get tend to get dirty.
To further aid others in troubleshooting the issue this would help as well… Using a thick piece of clear acrylic (i.e. at least 6mm or 1/4"), do a short-line test burn (same settings) on the acrylic from each corner of your machine (i.e. top left, bottom left, top right, and bottom right). Re-do the test but this time set the Max/Min power to 20%. Share the video or resulting burn pics.
I know this has already been discussed, but let me add my perspective.
My generic “100 watt” import will gladly let me set the power to levels that, over a short time, would damage the laser tube irreparably. It has the RECI W2/S2 tube, which can do 100w MAXIMUM (but don’t!!!). If you read the spec sheet the maximum current for long-tube-life is 25ma (I use 24ma). With experience that equates to 55% power in my system as set by LightBurn. I really don’t want to degrade my tube, so that’s my absolute maximum value, and frankly I can cut anything I want at that power. If it doesn’t get through, I just SLOW DOWN.
I did install an analog meter on the front of my unit. I have posted the design for the 3d printed holder on Thingiverse: Current (ma) panel meter mount for Laser Cutter/Engraver by Narosenberg - Thingiverse
My tube works as well today as it did when I got the machine two years ago. Apparently it’s stable for now.
Here’s a quote from the RECI spec sheet:
“The working current: test current is 29mA. Maximum working current is 29mA. The running current must be kept below 27mA. The life span can reach 8,000 hours if the current is kept below 25mA. The ammeter indicating current must be connected to the negative electrode of the laser tube.”
@neiler, I did not understand the point of your comment. Everything you write is fine and correct but how does it help @Zanman?
Most of us with CO2 laser handle their tubes in the same way as you describe, plus / minus a few mA. But @Zanman can not even cut 3mm plywood with his 100 Watt tube, which others otherwise do well with 40 Watt or less. He writes that his machine is half a year old, if he has not run max power all this time but stick to the 80-85% the tube should be ok and easily cut 6mm plywood and the like. There needs to be serious troubleshooting, or it just remains a discussion of well-meaning arguments that are not directly related to the problem itself.
I will admit, I read most of the comments and I didn’t see anyone mention doing a ramp test (if someone did, I apologize). I do a ramp test every couple of weeks just to keep everything in check. The piece of acrylic that came with my laser (AF2435-80w) is spot on. I use it to set my focal length and then I move it up another .5mm to it focuses on the center of the material. My laser (OmTech) has the electronic mA meter on the top which is nice.
[bernd.dk] said: “I did not understand the point of your comment. Everything you write is fine and correct but how does it help @Zanman?”
Of course I can’t know what’s up with his setup.
However, I know from experience that 80-85% power is WAY above the safe point for the tube in my machine. If I used it at that level for six months (with any regularity) I would not be surprised if the tube aged prematurely and permanently, resulting in poor laser output. BTW there are tools to measure actual light power, but they’re pretty expensive.
I’m absolutely not trying to be snarky here, quite the opposite. Trusting a percent reading rather than actually measuring the current can easily lead to overdriving the tube.
A decent 30ma analog meter costs around $15 on Amazon, and can save hundreds (a RECI S2 retails for about $580) and lots of hassle. Having installed a meter in my machine was a real learning moment, and going forward I wouldn’t cut without it.
I believe that a lot of folks mess up large tubes due to lack of cooling not too much power. Yea over time XY power will degrade the tube but not having a compressor style chiller will kill a big tube quickly.
Who needs maximum power anyway? I just upgraded to a 90w tube and using a 60w PS would cut this material at 15% with a 50mm lens. My chiller is set at 19 deg C btw
I have an 8 month old 100 watt. I cut through 1/8” Baltic birch like butter. It’s 45-50mm/s at 65percent(1ma).
I do have an American photonics lens system and an upgraded air assist running 50 psi.
Make sure your mirrors are clean.
Make sure your mirror alignment is perfect. Including vertical beam alignment,
Check your air assist. My father has a 100 watt purchased a couple weeks before min and the factory air pump quit after 50 hours of run time.
Make sure your lens is clean and clear.
What temperature do you have your chiller set to?
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