Yep… usually multiples of 2, since they are digital drivers… mine is 12,800 and works fine. Same as on the motor driver placard.
The videos people follow show adjusting this to get a correct rotation…
I’ve spend a number of decades with machines/computers… if it’s digital, it should be digital all the way and be correct…
It’s digital up to the motor… so it should be right, at least at that point.
I’ve found it’s hard to argue with success, but find they usually have strange issues down the road… I generally don’t say anything and just let them run with it…
Haven’t looked but to be honest, 12,800 is probably something I should try. When I hit 13K, it looked fine but I can see another 200 might be closer. I’m literally just using a felt tip dry erase marker to judge my steps. I haven’t managed to get to a point of drawing a line on tape yet to ensure it’s perfect. Still trying to get the gap closed up between passes. I’ll have some time tonight to play some more! Great info, thanks!!
I have a 7.62, 2 X 5.56 (one red dot, one iron sights) and a 6.5 Grendel for AR’s. My Grendel is my baby, it’s extremely accurate. 24" Rhino barrel, 6x24x50 scope. I can only step out to 200 yards on my property but I can put 3 rounds through a quarter with it. I’ve had it out to 400 yards and I can get 3 rounds in a 2" box. I want to get it to 1000 but then again, I’m working on selling enough to hide ~$5K from my wife so I can get my .338 Lapua.
I’m just itching to get some testing done on metal so I can laser my guns. I have tons to practice on. . . the Grendel will be last.
Seems like last time I did this I used the laser and marked the chuck lightly, then test. But the difference we are talking about is probably small fractions of a mm. What really puzzles me is your comment about overlap. Even with zero overlap, if your measurement is accurate and line space, slice size is set correctly, shouldn’t be gaps. With any overlap at all in the settings, really shouldn’t. I set overlap to zero and have great results, but set slice to 3 or 4 line spaces example line spacing 0.001mm and a slice of 0.003mm or 0.004mm depending on diameter, bigger diameter bigger the slice. Did a revolver used the 0.001/ 0.003 settings for the barrel and cylinder, came out perfect.
So Here is one thing that I do, worked great on the revolver and some test pieces, Figure the minimum resolution of the work piece/ rotary combination, example say the cylinder is 33mm dia, X pi, circumference =103.672 divide by the 12800 steps, so the smallest distance the work piece can travel is 0.008mm at the surface so in this case I would make my slices or splits 0.008mm or multiples 0.016mm, 0.024mm, etc. Something like a cylinder or barrel I go as small as possible, 0.008. A yeti could go 10 times that (bigger curves, out of focus, etc).
Then set line spacing to space equally in the slice, like 0.002 in the 0.008 slice, so 4 equal lines, step, 4 equal lines, step, on and on. The spot size on a typical lens is 10x greater +/- then the 0.002mm line spacing so you are already getting 90% overlap w/ ea scan.
Bi directional is fine, but no cross hatch, scan parallel to axis.
Measuring as accurately as possible is the key. Tapered go with the largest dia and tilt the workpiece so top is level. I have a rotary that goes 38,400 steps so that’s how I got down to the 0.003mm slice.
Clear as mud, right?
Sockets make nice test pieces, good quality steel, good tolerances. Got the chrome to deal with but the close line spacing will help with that. Black ones even better.
Take one decimal place off everything above, when I got home I checked I was 0.01/0.03 not 0.001/0.003. Threw a socket in there to play with when I got home and pulled up the barrel file. Old brain cells.
Still trying to get the gap closed up between passes. I’ll have some time tonight to play some more! Great info, thanks!!
