I just heard on TV last night, “Fortune favors the bold.”
1 Like
Hi.
No it wasn’t, it was a result of using artificial stupidity, and believing it to be correct.
OTOH, testing whether we’d fall for it or not 
.
Almost a ten times error isn’t much of an estimate though, is it 
Nope, the volume felt way too low and since I was too lazy to calculate it I instead looked it up on some science website, and erred at least ~20% on the side of the caution, I’m very boring that way.
Hence the plus.
I do admit that I have intentionally blown stuff up just to shake folks a bit, but there always been at least a some kind of a reason for me to do so, and I sure don’t have a reason to make You -or anyone else here for that matter- intentionally to blow up even a party balloon.
Most likely yes, it would.
However, most commercial automatic CO2 16g cartiridge based systems for medium size diode laser cabinets seem to have 3-6 cartiridges, but I do not know enough about how those systems discharge the CO2 to even guess as why.
If I build such a system in the future, that too will be based around a soda CO2 bottle.
Yeah, experimental sciences are the best 
.
Regards,
Sam
Never heard of such a system. You have a link to something I can review?
Ask Madam Curie how she feels about that.
You think we did not notice? 
Just be careful and not overuse your power. Not everyone is Teflon coated.
Hi.
Could’ve sworn I’ve seen others as well, but the xTool Fire Safety Set is the only one I’m able to find ATM??.
And as I disagree with their protectionistic policies, I don’t feel comfortable with promoting their products by posting a direct link.
Easy enough for You to find though.
The pioneers in any field have often paid the same price.
And countless others have used unwilling human test subjects in order to save their own hide…
You lost me there, I’m pretty sure You weren’t present at those times.
And obviously I made sure (enough) that the flying debris didn’t hit anyone, not too severely anyway .
Regards,
Sam
1 Like
Back to the reality of indoor fires- my sweetie bought two stovetop fire ‘pods’ they are magnetic to attach over the burners and have fuses incorportated in the bottom of a small tin can affair [stovefire I think is the brand] and I keep looking at them- they are for grease fires of course- and Amazon has fire links that appear to be two pieces of sheet metal soldered together and the temp when the solder melts and pulls apart could be used to trigger a CO2 extinguisher on the outside of the enclosure. Could be used mechanically or electrically? Another for my endless Wanna Do list, Gene
Hi.
These I assume:
Couldn’t find exactly with a quick glance but based on the looks, I’d assume powder of some sort is the extinguishing medium.
And a spring loaded liquid filled bulb (like in the traditional sprinkler heads) is the fuse/trigger.
You do raise a valid and very important point though: the extinguishing part is easy, accurate and dependable detection and trigger mechanism is nothing but.
At least us xTool diode laser owners have found out just how finicky a flame detector can be when designed incorrectly, and I’d assume the other manufacturers aren’t much better.
There are several automatic mechanical fire (damper) fuse designs available for various applications and fire damper designs, the two strips joined together by temperature sensitive joining medium is only one of them.
In the old days those were soldered with Woods metal -or similar alloys if ~70C wasn’t the target temperature- but AFAIK plastic adhesives are preferred now in both the plunger- and strip varities.
Except for critical applications where the legislation and cost structure is different.
It’s easy to understand as to why the soldered varities are being phased out by just looking at the composition of those alloys, the base metals are harmful if not downright toxic, not to mention expensive.
that kind of a list is very, very familiar to me as well.
One extinguishing method I’d like to explore more at some point is the Marioff HiFog, that’s a very effective and gentle sensitive equipment fire extinguishing system.
Regards,
Sam
Drove 5 hours to visit my 87yo bro yesterday and had time to think. The fusible link could/should trigger a relay to cut off the power to the laser and power to the exhaust fan to limit the spread of fire and could trip off a CO2 extinguisher plumbed thru the enclosure wall. More to come as I work out the kinks. Gene
$2000+ for it, not in my budget. With it using water, make sure power is off before firing it off.
Hi.
True, that’s bascally how some of the fire suppression systems are triggered.
Those kinds of systems that are triggered with fusible links are somewhat hard to calibrate though, especially if the ambient temperature varies a lot.
I thought that it was clear by now that I’m a diyholic, so I was talking about a DIY version.
Commercial CO2 and Halon based systems are in the same price range though.
Nope, not necessary.
The system can use deionized/treated water if necessary, and IIRC was designed to offer an alternative to Halon based systems in sensitive environments.
Including electrical equipment environments like server rooms, data centers and such.
For example, at least the last two Spirit Class cruise ships (early 2000’s) had Hi-Fog systems installed in the technical areas and in the galleys.
Regards,
Sam
This rebuild is taking much longer than I expected… I now have the Z adjust tower out and disassembled. The fumes were very corosive- the small bearings in the tower were really rusted- I ordered new ones from uxcell [amazon] and have cleaned the alum up with aluminum brightener from Purple Power and a Mr Clean sponge- works great- should have been using that from the start. I am setting up a 165 degree fusible link that will cut 115v power to the laser/exhaust/lights/air assist and anything else I can imagine.
I am using the small compressor that supplies my CO2 laser as it is side by side. I am taking my time and doing everything to the best of my ability. I will do a write up in a week or so [I hope]. Gene
I got a CO2 fire extinguisher that may fire thru one wall if needed- thought about triggering it mechanically with the fusible link but I am hoping for ten more years of life and I have a lot to do.
Don’t you have an E-button on your machine for emergencies?
That’s what it’s for, cut power to the complete machine…
Hi Jack- the reason this fire was so bad was the exhaust fan spread it very quickly. I now have an all aluminum tubing duct with a couple of ‘traps’ built in but the fan and blade are still plastic and do not want sparks thru the wall with grass/weeds out side. I have my own little corner of a building which includes a small room with a drill press and bandsaw where I was during the fire [spend 10 min a month in there]. There is a big red E button but it was too late for that. It is a thin line between over and under doing something. Have never regretted overdoing. Gene
I am adding 175DegF thermal switches (left over from when I was making alarm systems) to the duct intake leading to the exhaust fan.
Googled them and that would have been simpler- I would still put it on the upper surface of my enclosure- if you have no enclosure then the intake will work as well.
My machines have enclosures. I cannot imagine an exhaust system working very well without one.
I would expect the heat to not accumulate at the top if you have a duct fan. Just to be safe, put a switch in both places and wire series or parallel as needed.
1 Like
Sorry I’m late to the party
They’re not cheap, but if you have the room…
Having had the meltdown myself So, this happened ('small' fire) , there are a few options along the way to keep this from happening again. Now that I’ve had to move the machine into a much smaller area (since my wife’s candle business has grown well past mine) in the garage attached to the house instead of the shop, I’ve added in a 15lb CO2 extinguisher with thermal fuse valve. It gets hot in the cabinet, the valve lets go and dumps the whole bottle. Bit of $$$ and plumbing in the process, but keeping fire out of the house was a good motivator.
3 Likes
15lb CO2 extinguisher with thermal fuse valve
I understand fusible link but cannot find anything on thermal fuse valve? I am just starting to use my fiber laser again and am still working out the thermal cutoff for the laser and exh fan, so I am still researching.
RE: your fire- I have a couple chosen employees who can use the 130W CO2 laser and have this in front of their faces…
I got mine out of an older replaced CO2 ANSUL style system. You can probably find a high pressure solenoid that would do nearly the same thing. However, you’d have to make sure to turn it on/off so you don’t blow by if it changed state accidentally (power loss/power on) and not with your system as you design it. Mine is 'set it and forget it. If my bottle does go dry, it’s because I have a leak or I had a fire. There are also system activated valves designed specifically for fire protection. We have a few at my retirement job. They spray CO2 directly into the dust collection just in case we start something we didn’t want to start. These are full size “H” cylinders, so I’m sure it’ll work in much smaller instances. I can’t guess cost, but I’m guessing not home owner/small business friendly.
1 Like
Maybe you can clarify how this works? You have the thermal valve, which I assume is entirely mechanical and requires no power. I looked at the link, nice photo but I see no information on how these work or what the specifications are. I assume there are variation like a quick acting or slow blow type fuse?
How does the solenoid valve operate? Does it have a sensor and where is it’s power arrived.
I have a co2 bottle that I carry to whatever machine I’m using…
For what it’s worth, even rocket surgeons sometimes get that wrong:
the payload fairing “deployed” after the unexpected electrical issue triggered the separation system
Tough to look cool when that happens … 
3 Likes