I just bought a ComMarker B4 20w galvo. When I run a project on tumblers with a rotary, the ‘start’ pop up says it is “Processing slice xx of xxxxx” on some graphics. Some graphics only have one slice and of course run much quicker. I’m not doing 3D or anything crazy. Just burning onto painted tumblers.
Is it possible to adjust the number of slices or do something so it only has one slice?
Thanks for any help!!
A few things to try. Im on my phone so short version.
0.020 split means it takes like 50 slices to move 1 inch. No, 1 millimeter. Even worse.
I believe if you want a max shape size of 20mm in Run Whole Shapes your split should be 20mm+.
Or Run all shapes in each slice will cut down on slices. Think these settings through.
See if any of this helps, shout out, ill be back by my machine and computer later.
Thanks for the tips, Albroswift, really helpful info. I just ran into the same thing with my B4. I wasn’t expecting it to break up simple graphics into so many slices either. I’ll check my split distance and try adjusting it higher, like you mentioned. Curious to see how much of a difference it makes with “Run Whole Shapes” versus “Run All Shapes in Each Slice.” Appreciate the breakdown even from your phone! Looking forward to hearing more once you’re back at your machine.
Thanks for the reply!
I changed the split size to 5mm and turned off the Run Whole shapes. I still have faint lines in the burn. See the areas marked with the red arrows. They are 5mm apart. Are these overlap lines?
I set the overlap to 0 and it was worse.
I had a diode laser for 2 years. Still trying to wrap my head around how all these parameters interact on the galvo.
Thanks again!
Some things to consider that might help, the surface moves in steps. Assuming you have a chuck type rotary, and if, for example, your microstep controller is set for 6400 microsteps per revolution, and your circumference is 275.203…mm each microstep moves the surface 0.043mm. (similar with a roller) So I like to make my split a multiple of that. Instead of 5mm try 4.3mm (Or any multiple of 0.043 just used 4.3mm as an easy example can do in my head) Then I like to make my LI divide equally into the split so 0.0215 (200X), 0.0287 (150X), whatever comes out closest to the LI you have in your cuts/ layers already.
Overlap (in my opinion) is a last resort kind of thing, I don’t know if it follows the split or the LI but I like to leave it at 0. If it follows the split it would need to be a multiple of the example 0.043 so in your settings above it would fight the 0.02, if it follows the LI it would cause similar issues. Before I mess with overlap I will adjust the circumference a little bit at a time, inaccuracies in measuring, arc length, and rounding do stack up.
If / when you do want to use overlap, try the LI (0.0215) or minimum step distance (0.043) see if that helps.
If you zoom in with a microscope you will probably always see an artifact at the slices, but you should be able to get it to the point it goes away visually.
Note: I used 6400 for the microstep driver settings, you may have something else. Everything above are examples based on that. For chucks 6400 and 12800 are pretty common.
Me again. I reduced the split to .040 and overlap to 0 and still have faint lines in the graphic.
This photo is at 1400mm/s. it seems to be better at a slower speed of 1000. Does that make sense?
Typing at the same time.
If these edges are straight lines in your graphic you have a couple settings off that are fighting each other. Play around with the information above you should be able to get a lot of improvement.
Also, post your rotary setup window may be something there that can help.
Ha! yeah, our replies must have crossed paths in the wires. Yes, those lines are supposed to be straight. Thanks, i was going to tackle that next.
There is a bit of a learning curve as with anything.
Getting closer!
My rotary is 12800 steps/rotation.
My setting now:
split: 2.15
LI: .0215
Speed reduced to 1000.
I now have just faint thin lines which are about 4mm apart. Which should I adjust to correct this?
The lines on the 77 are a little straighter. Is that a timing and delay issue? I had played with this on my 110 lens, but have not adjusted it on the 200 lens yet. At the suggestion of a youtuber, i created separate machines for each lens.
thanks again!!!
Yes, you definitely need a device setup specific to each lens. Also, there are timing and delay overrides for each cut/layer to mess with to really dial timing in. 2nd semester stuff.
Really close on the logo.
What these little jogs tell me is either your measurement is a little off, or your centerline axis is not exactly lined up with the laser’s axis. If the rotation is from left to right, I would try decreasing the diameter just a tiny amount. Re-do the math. Run a test. Maybe to save time/ space just run enough of the graphic to cover a straight edge and a diagonal edge. Adjust. Maybe cut your split size down a little keeping with the math. This might help with the splits as well.
Also, a magic eraser and some rubbing alcohol may help as well. I think you have this from here!
