Grayscale images explained

Image trace isnt always the answer.

Original Image cropped to size.
warships grayscale copy.JPEG

Output as Grayscale at these settings

IMG_0996.jpg

A closer look
IMG_0997.jpg

I will try and upload the file. It was created with version 2.1 prerelease 11.

If I can it will be warships.lbrn2

This very dark image (black cat crossing an asphalt road) is called low key.

A very light image (polar bear on snow) is called high key.

This Image is closer to low key.

The settings does a few things to adjust the image.

The gamma sets the range from light to dark original may be 100% black. And 0% light.

it is a straight line ramp from 0% to 100% black.

Changing it to .425 brings the black level down to a much lighter level, but retains the detail.

If you were to change the contrast you would warp that ramp form a central point.

Brightness moves that central point and moves it up or down that ramp.

As for the Enhancement (sharpness). Don’t know why the call it Enhancement.

The amount is overall sharpness you want.

The radius is a little tricker to explain.

The radius looks at a single pixel, each time you increment it you expand the that to incorporate another row of pixels around that single pixel. The system decides what the average density it will assign to this pixels. The bigger the radius, the more sharpness is calculated based on the amount you have set. Experiment around with the settings to see how they work.

Now for the cut/layer settings

Using GRAYSCALE

Speed will affect that you power settings are. These work for me, you machine will probably be different

The Maximum and Minimum power determines the darkest and lightest level you will engrave.

So 100% black and below wont engrave any higher than this setting.

This works for Minimum and does the same for the lightest area.

So a 0% and above wont engrave below the minimum power.

You can still apply any of the other styles Jarvis, halftone, etc.

If you can understand how all these settings work together, you have made dealing with images so much easier to get the effect you want.

I usually take select the image and do a test, stop and make a change then display and start off where I stopped. Take notes as to what you are changing. Do this until you have dialed in what works.

Then make a preset so you have a starting point for the next time.

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Your images did not load properly. Please consider using the upload button to add in a ‘reply’ post so we can see your examples. :slight_smile:

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warship comparison.lbrn2 (3.5 MB)

We strongly recommend moving to the Release version of LightBurn - 2.1.00 RC has since been superseded by full releases.

You can download it here:

Thanks for providing the advise!

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Jay

That’s very interesting work especially if you made allowances for the dot/spot size expansion due to power level.

Very adventurous speed setting.

Did you laser the original image, and find a big improvement after the adjustments.

Using this settings, the original is terrible. Too dark, and everything above that 70% max mark basic all is burned as black.

What is interesting is the smaller you make the image, just like the old crt tv. Image compression makes thing even sharper.

I have been messing with Ai image generation and using LB to output images in Grayscale. I think if you use Atkinson output might make it better. I have a few different set of instructions that I use to create my final images. Those setting are a really good start, and may need a little adjustments one way or the other.

I like the grayscale output, because I can control the power settings, it’s just a little more challenging. Also using images instead of tracing always gives you more detail. Trace works on something’s, but I have found that working with images and cut shapes can give you some really awesome results.

Try and trace this.

Merry Christmas.

This what I started with in Ai.

I did your warship on slate this evening but I reduced the speed to 4000mm/min and power to 14.5/Min ‘0’ (using 20w diode), I also set Gamma to ~(-750) Enhance-R (2), E-amount (400), Greyscale.

It didn’t look right so I re–set Power to 32%, Gamma 1,200, and it came out better but still a bit bright (missing the midtones), I may try again with Gamma up to 1,450, Time 1.37hr.

It could be done easier with Jarvis/Stucki but where’s the fun/headwreck in that.

You created some nice white-space in the image around the defined black lines and it assists contrast but your idea with the pixel dimm’s is really good and I’m trying to get that technique this eve.

It was late this eve when the job was finished so I left it in place with no photo as the light in the workshop was low so will do that tomorrow also.

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Doing it on slate will definitely take adjusting the setting. Grayscale won’t work on slate. Slate is one of those materials that it either marks or it doesn’t,

I don’t think Atkinson would give you as good of results as dither or Stucki, or Jarvis.

The reason is the density and pattern that each creates.

Interesting thing about the image. I asked for 2 individual ships to be put into a single image and appear in a military formation with the shorter on in foreground. Ai can do so much. I whis I had tools like this when I was in the graphic arts business 30+ years ago.

I am having fun just coming up with ideas to throw at it.

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I love pushing Ai to do more.

Ho,Ho,Ho. Merry Christmas.

Jay

This is what I got from the slate, it’s 260mmx180mm..ish.

I did the second one with a Gamma of 1,900 but it’s too dark, I got the clouds to show but probably it needs to have what’s above the horizon altered so both sky and ships appear OK.

Your results are about what I would expect.

Is your output Grayscale, that’s what it looks like to me. I would crank up the brightness, and adjust the contrast together the clouds back. The image should appear fairly flat. It may require some additional sharpness.

I haven’t played with slate much. Keep trying, and keep me posted. This is interesting.

Try this version. It is an 8 bit image. 256 shades of gray instead of 16 bit image millions. I don’t know if it will make a difference or not.

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Stipulated: pedantry.

The DDG-37 was USS O’Kane.

The “USS Elron” on the bow appears hallucinated from the USS Elrod (FFG-55) in the high-res version.

The “55” in the background resembles the USS Leyte Gulf (CG-55).

The ships seem to have LLM kitbashing, although they had many updates in their history.

It’d be interesting to see if putting ship names or numbers in the prompt improved the accuracy.

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the 2 ships I ended up using were the elrod and the Leyte. I originally got the elron by accident. I just asked it to replace it with the Elrod. When I asked for them, I requested them by their ships name.

So yes the foreground ship should be the Elrod FFG-55, and the one in the back should be the Leyte-CG-55.

Good catch.

Which should appear on the stern, not the bow: another bit of LLM fine tuning.

With all that in mind, the result is way better than anything I can do. :grin:

How about these. Thanks for the catch. this is for a friend who served on the 2 ships.

I guess i have to double check Ai if i want real objects, because it will make up what it thinks is right. Thanks again.

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That’s a pretty cool ship image…plenty of motion.

Here’s a Greyscale of a photo taken by a photographer I know called Mike.

I tried adding a bit of copper color by masking but it needs work.

It’s safe to assume LLM results are junk until you catch the inevitable errors.

I’m unqualified to catch more than gross errors; your buddy will instantly spot a dozen details. :grimacing:

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that’s cool.

is that on slate?