How do you gerbils deal with letting your LED cool down during a long burn project

I can’t seem to find any setting (not saying it doesn’t exist) that lets the laser cool down every so many minutes. I believe some diode lasers have this feature built in but I am running an Eleksmaker A3 and I do not believe it is a built in feature.
They say never run it more than 30 minutes without a cool down so…ho do you guys deal with this.

I would imagine I could write a macro for this. i used to write Gcode for Fanuc I series lasers I would just have to brush up on a gcode if/and timer.
I like the Gerbils reference…haha…its not a typo…compared to my two Co2 lasers…this is a Gerbil…:slight_smile:
Scott

I have never paused a job with my Eleksmaker A3, 5.5 Watt. I think if the diodes are not abused with overload, then they last for many years. But with 5.5 watts, it is not possible, even with 100%, to cut clean through thicker materials such as plywood or MDF or HDF. That is why I think many manufacturers exceed the limit of diodes and even call them 40 Watt laser.
If two of the largest diodes (7.5 watts ??) are connected through prism or mirrors you will theoretically be able to reach 15 watts, which I think is fantastic. However, heat generation is so violent that I do not believe that this type of laser can be used for continuous operation. At the same time, the purchase price is so high that it makes more sense to buy a 35 Watt CO2 laser, it cuts through 4mm plywood with min.600 mm / min and it does it (with me) up to 10 hours at a time.

I am just using my diode for engraving via the white tile method. Most everything I do I have two larger CO2 lasers for.
The white tile method takes a few hours at about 80% so while have a lot of experience on CO2 and even YAG…I am not familiar with low power diode lasers.
Anyway just seeing if there is any concern on long engravings…:slight_smile: Scott

I could up grade the diode assembly to 5.5 and run at lower power verses the stock 2.5 watt as well.

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