I am trying to trace and edit an ANZAC Day Rising Sun Badge. I’m incredibly new to the industry and my primary business has been bare basic engraving plates on my laser machine.
I’ve tried a few different images but get stuck on refining it to break it to lines and fill. I get some sections ok but then it doesn’t work for others.
The Shading is what isn’t working for me. I tried removing the lettering but that hasn’t exactly helped either.
Attached in the word document are examples of what I’m trying to achieve, where I’m going wrong etc.
I’ve now spent over 5 hours trying to do this. The simple answer is to ask for help. Is there anyone who can help put this in a LightBurn format for me please.
Guidance for figuring this kind of thing out is welcomed too please.
I’ve occasionally needed to use various non-vector images, and often I’ve gotten results a bit like yours. I’ve generally found that having a program (LightBurn, or usually Inkscape for me) trace them doesn’t get me to the finish line regardless of attempted settings, but I do have methods, and maybe they might help you…
If I can find an existing vector image (SVG, usually, but sometimes embedded in a PDF somewhere) I’ll use that either by itself or just to get some/most of the image. For example, Wikipedia has a Rising Sun badge page with a SVG that, while different, may be useful.
I’ll take multiple traces and select only the good parts to cut and paste together to compose a “clean” design. (The lower right trace, for example, would be pretty good for cutting the text to paste into the design from the Wikipedia SVG, replacing its text and center element.)
Manually cleaning up little glitches in a trace by node editing is usually a required/desired step, as it’s easier to excise a “bubble” by just editing it than trying to get a perfect trace (which may not be mathematically possible, even). I personally really like Inkscape for this step, but I have spent years becoming fluent in the power of its UI – LightBurn is always getting better, and if you aren’t fluent in either, either should do, I imagine.
If… when… all else fails, I’ve used Inkscape’s bezier curve pen tool to just manually trace a design. There’s really nothing that compares to a human when it comes to tracing, as you inherently know what’s important. It obviously takes longer, but I know I’ll end up with a useful result.
In the case of your image, I’d likely use a programmatic trace to get the text, the Wikipedia SVG for the shapes of general design, and manual editing/tracing to add the tip detail the SVG doesn’t have.
(I’d see what I can throw together for you, but I’ve got to head off to work. If you’re still struggling, perhaps I can give it a whirl later and put together a design as a kind of explanation/tutorial with a conveniently useful result, if I can make some “spare” time.)
Amazing response, thank you so very much.
Breaking it down into sections is a great idea. I just need to not panic and take my time.
The link to the Wiki page image is perfect too. The text element is ok, I can remove and replace that including the feature “A” it’s having the right areas as fill spots to imitate the shading of the image.
I’ll look into Inkscape, it’s not the first time I’ve read that it’s a good support program. I’ve got CorelDraw (inherited with computer) but have not found it to be totally user friendly.
Thanks heaps, I’ll share what I end up with or come back begging for help later.
Break the rules. Don’t be afraid to try stuff. Ctrl+Z is go back one step. I use it all the time.
Use the left to right (red) drag box to isolate small parts of the design. Make copies of your successful edits, so you are not afraid of messing them up.
Learn by play. Dive in and try it all and have fun
It makes sense to analyze an image and discover recurring patterns… for example, the element highlighted in red repeats multiple times. And the elements highlighted in blue are mirrored. Thus, the solution of splitting the image into sections and editing only those is probably the fastest way.
Let me mention a few things. Mostly that lasers are much like a printing press, they mark or don’t mark. So many of the techniques used in the printing industry works with lasers.
Using your co2 on wood, it may start to leave a visible mark at 30% and burn at 50%, so your ability to make it a gradual gradient is compressed to an area of about 20%. And of course, every piece is a bit different.
There is a couple videos from Laser Everything on photo engraving that you should watch. I’m sure it will help you get this dialed in. It’s done on a fiber, but the procedure works for any laser with any material.
It’s a very good video on setting up your interval (dpi) for it’s optimum value on the whatever you’re working on.
A co2 is not the best type for working with metals. You’re only process is to use a coating a lase it.
Although some lasers produce better types of grayscales, co2 generally do not. I’d suggest you use a dither of some type.
Also keep in mind that an interval of less than the beam spot size likely isn’t going to help you.
My 2" co2 has a spot size of about 0.20mm, so the best I can expect is 127dpi. You resolution is dependent on both the machines spot size and type of material.
I have better luck using a dither to simulate a grayscale rather than directly attempting a gray scale operation.
