Laser power not adjustable

I have a 100 watt Rabbit with Ruida control. I just got it working after someone upgraded this with new tube, controller and power supply. the power supply is cloudray. I am not getting enough power out and just noticed this connector does not pull in snug. Is this supposed to be tight?

I have the two pieces screwed tight however the lower
connector insert moves in and out a good 1/8 inch. is this supposed to be tight? has anyone had this and what did you do to solve this?

  1. Has it ever worked correctly since the upgrade?
  2. Did they copy the controllers configuration from the old controller to the new one?
  3. Was the old controller also a Ruida?

If there was only one connector, this would be fine, but there are many.. in any case they should be seated, if that’s what you mean.

A 100W tube, which power supply do you have?

Saw the photo, these are what I use, and yes it needs to be seated and hand screwed snug. Power down the machine for a few hours (or overnight), long enough to let the high voltage drain off before messing with connectors on these…

However this isn’t likely your problem for power…

:smiley_cat:

Hi Jack, I am the guy who was having problems and a different topic called setting the bed size. That topic closed… I have been away from the machine for a while, wife had back surgery, but not I am determined to get this finished and working. I fixed that connector so it does go in a bit farther and seats good.
OK, everything is all moving and the laser is turning on and off etc. I did some test cuts with different power settings in lightburn and they are all the same. power supply is cloudy dy13. from the last thread where I could not get the laser to fire. the only thing I did which got it to fire was to connect a jumper wire on the power supply from terminal wp to ground. I have the water protection connected into the ruida which is what you mentioned in previous posts
I think I must be down to an incorrect setting someplace

WP on the supply to ground is fine, that’s how mine is wired. If you chiller has a problem, it will indicate it to the Ruida and it will halt the job. Gives you the option to restart it also, as well as when you have a power failure.


Check your current reading at different power settings … that’s your best indicator on how much power you are running.

:smiley_cat:

are you referring to a voltage test at the “TL” terminal of the lps for different settings in lightburn?

You should have some kind of current meter, it’s not on your lps, like a lot of the newer ones.

It’s a simple addition, pick up a 30mA analog meter and wire it inline (series) with the cathode (ground) side of the tube. From the tubes cathode → meter → ground.

I used one of these or something similar from Amazon.


The more watts being created is related to the current draw, so most of us have a panel meter of some kind. It’s also wise to watch the current so you keep the tube within the manufacturers limits.

You don’t need a voltmeter, but the mA meter is pretty much a necessity.

:smiley_cat:

Thanks much, got one ordered, will install next week. God bless

It’s pretty simple. This is for a K40, but the wiring is the same no matter what lps you use.

The L- is just a return ground, wherever the black return wire from the tubes cathode is wired will be fine. I don’t know if my lps has an L- pin…

On mine, all of the machine is chassis grounded, so I ran it to one of the nuts holding the meter in the machine.

All you really care about is the mA meter is in line between the tube cathode and ground.

Sing out if you have issues…

Good luck

:smiley_cat:

OK, got the meter and installed it.
I ran tests at 10, 25, 50, 75, and 100%
all of them show 5Ma, no change

That is barely lasing.


The Ruida sends, either an analog voltage (L-AN1) or a pwm signal (L-PWM1) to the IN terminal of the lps. When L (L-On1) goes low, the machine lases at the specified current limit set by the IN voltage.


Check the IN of the lps or it’s feed of pwm from the controller and see what voltage you read between the pwm power control and ground.

PWM (or analog) control uses 2.5V for 50% power and 5V for 100% power. If this is working then it’s likely you have a bad lps.

The L-On1 from the controller has to go low to enable it to lase.

Make sense?

:smiley_cat:

OK, I did voltage test at Lpw1 to ground on ruida
tested 10, 25, 50, 75, 100 percent and all of them get 5.05 volts
now what?

The Ruida should put out the percentage * 5V. If it’s getting 5V out all the time, that’s why you have high power all the time, but your mA is pretty low, if I recall.

You can unplug the signal line to the lps (marked in red) and check again to ensure the controllers doing this, not the lps.

You can also check the L-An1 output, which is analog and should read the same type of percentage for power… 2.5V at 50% power.

Make sense?

:smiley_cat:

New Setting.
I changed the setting in lightburn for min. power from 20% to 100%
now my voltage output on Lpw1 varies from 1.3 to 5 on the settings I am using for tests
however the Ma reading on the little meter is 5ma at 10% power and 10ma on all the other settings
the min power on the console is set at 95 and the max at 99
what to test next??

Depending on how you do this, result will be different. It should have made no difference when you made that change.

Are you doing all this through Lightburn or via the machines control panel?

:smiley_cat:

all my changes were through lightburn

There is no way to pulse the machine via Lightburn.

Set your console up to use the pulse button to set this up.

Do you know how to use the console to do this?

:smiley_cat:

I was testing it by trying to cut a small square
do I have to do the tests by pulsing

If you pulse it manually you will get a more correct value. If you make a box, the power could vary as it goes around the corners.

Set the machines console to manual and the power to 50% and test it there. It should read 2.5V on IN (LPWM1, same on L-An1). Change the power, it should change voltage.

It should also change the mA through the tube when you do this, so watch your mA meter also.

When I do this, I just take the lens out. The resulting beam doesn’t do much damage, if any, to the table or wood.

:smiley_cat:

I am not sure what you mean by setting the console to manual