Laser "Safe" Adhesive Vinyl - but not really Vinyl

There is a laserable mask used in glass and stone sand engraving…I use it all the time. It contains no PVC…is more of a rubber like consistency. Thicker than viny and can take high pressure sand blasting even.
You can apply the the blank to your surface and laser cut it then weed it…or you place the sheet in the laser…cut it…DO NOT WEED IT but peel the back and apply it to the surface THEN WEED IT.
Use a lot in monument blasting. Have to buy a roll though…about 60$
here is the stencil.
I have used lazermask…yuck nausea…and orange tape…oh please no…this IS WHAT THE PRO’s use…only real solution that works and works perfect. Everything else recommended is cr@p…period. I have tried it all…I mean all and I blast stone and glass all the time.
https://uscutter.com/Anchor-BlastLite-INTSANCT226/
and the msd stating laser safe
https://uscutter.com/content/PDFs/Anchor-T226-TDS.pdf
![image|666x500](upload://iU9WUhYsIQFQTj7lM76X1Wj1QHX



.jpeg)

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Thanks Shughey. That’s very nice work.

Those alternatives look good but still too expensive - this is just a hobby for me atm. The main problem is that you can’t purchase in small amounts for testing purposes.

Anyway, I took a different tack and purchased some “Frisket Film”
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0065F1OS6?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

According to the specs it’s made of Polyester and therefore safe to lase:

EASY TO CUT: This .001” polyester film can easily be cut with scissors, die cutting systems, laser cutters, and stencil burners!

I should be receiving it tomorrow. Cost-wise it’s probably similar to LaserMask etc. but you can buy a small amount. :+1:

I’m not sure how this will go with sandblasting because it’s only 1 thou (25 microns) thick, so that could be an issue in the end. Not sure. I can’t do an actual sandblasting test yet because I haven’t got all the other bits of equipment together yet.

As of tomorrow, I’ll be picking up a 2nd hand air compressor, but I still don’t have the gun or correct grit. That will take some time to work out what I need. But at least I’ll have plenty of air!!!

Nevertheless, I can still do a cut test on my laser and see if it cuts and weeds well without leaving too much residue. All going well, I should be able to report back tomorrow. A small part of an almost insane never ending journey. :crazy_face:

Just send me your address and maybe Venmo me $10 and I will ship you enough…I have two big rolls…I can spare quite a bit.
I would use maybe 180 grit or around there as it is good for glass without cutting through. I use a pressure put in a purpose built Ikonics glass blasting cabinet so I don’t need over 40-50 PSI to frost or even engrave.
If your just frosting the thin mask should work…watch your gun pressure or you will just lift the edges of the mask.
Are you using a small pressure pot or gravity feed…

I think I’ll need a pressure pot. The gravity feed method would require a big lump thingy above the gun which I’ll have to hold all the time. A bit heavy and also obscure what I want to see. I want more control. So pressure pot it is.

Thanks for you generous offer. I’m in Australia so postage would be a killer. I’ll see what the new day brings.

I’m also yet to sort out a blasting cabinet, maybe home-made. Not sure yet.

I did a test cut on the Frisket Film and this is what I got:

The one on the left was less power than the one on the right. I also weeded away the outside of No.1 and the inside of No.2. The star-man shape is approx. 35mm high.

The Frisket Film does give a nice clean edge and seems to stick well, but there is some “pull-away” from the edges as it melts slightly. This can be seen at the points of the graphic. The No.2 version has quite rounded edges approx. 1mm in diameter. No.1 with less power not so much.

I admit that this rounded corner issue wouldn’t happen with a drag cutter. But I don’t think it will really matter for what I’m doing. I’ll mostly be cutting larger shapes to be glue chipped. Although I will be cutting smaller shapes for paint filling. Maybe there is a better cost-effective film out there?

Does anyone else get these rounded corners with the film they are using? Also for the record, masking tape or transfer tape gives sharper corners but this would not be suitable because it would absorb moisture.

Regardless, I’ll have to do a proper sandblasting test when I get the rest of the gear together.

btw. This was cut on Aluminium with a 2" lens.

I am terribly sorry for not responding, life issues and missed messages.
Unfortunately I cant give a useful answer, as its purchased locally (in iceland) from someone who presumably imports it from somewhere in germany.
a Slight correction, as the master Mask is what I was referring to wrongly as mastertape. largely the same thing but the mask is the more durable one.

I do wish you the best of luck my guy.

bit late in the discussion but I sandblast and use a pab blaster gun run off a pressure pot.The control is incredible and the fine detail you can get is amazing.Coming from an airbrush background its as good as my devillbis double action aerograph gun.I use the grafityp pvc free vinyl someone mentioned above and it works great.i ordered my pab gun from the US (i’m in Scotland).The postage was steep but worth it

HTV is usually used on clothes shirts/T-shirts etc and its totally different to apply
Thanks for sharing! I have ordered a few.

Why have you redirected my link to a different site? This gives the impression that I’ve endorsed or referenced something that I have not.

I will edit your post to remove the link in the quoted portion.

Safe “vinyl” which isn’t supposed to be vinyl is a bit confusing. And a mistake could damage the machine.

I would recommend a copper wire flame test on anything you get to be certain it doesn’t contain chlorine.