As per the video, I can’t get all the corners to line up. Is there an easier way to do this?
I’m almost sure yes it is.
Did you try “Print and Cut” feature?
It will suits you if I’m not wrong.
Some things I would try:
- select all circles and use the rectangular framing, you will get a box the you can your jig place in
- group those four corners, but I don’t know if individual framing is done then
- only put those for circles to output, disable the rest and frame everything
I’m not sure how the Galvo alingment process works, but I’m assuming you’re using absolute coordinates. If not, you should be.
Here’s my suggestion. Rather than moving the holder to match Lightburn, move the design in Lightburn to match the holder location.
Use the set of holes just left of where you are and the set of holes covered by the bottom edge of your holder and bolt the fence in place. Place your holder against the fence.
Make sure the old layers are deleted before doing this next part as they could affect framing. In Lightburn, select the entire design and group it for now. Frame it with the entire design still grouped, that should get your 4 corners. Measure how far your framing is off and move the design by that amount in lightburn. Test framing again. Keep adjusting the design until it’s where you want it without moving the holder.
Once you have the design framing correctly, ungroup the design. Select the circles layer, (You can select the entire layer by holding shift while clicking the layer in the cuts/layers panel) right click and choose lock selected shapes. That will keep the positioning in Lightburn and you should be able to place the holder against that fence position from here on out.
I know you want to keep using those battered holders, but they’re fighting you every step of the way.
Eyeballometrically, each piston has about half a millimeter of clearance in its hole. You can’t expect better accuracy than a millimeter in any direction after aligning the entire pattern to a couple of pistons with inaccurate positions.
Similarly, pushing the holder around to align a spinny ring of red laser light hitting the top of a chamfered piston at an angle leaves entirely too much to the imagination.
Because Print and Cut isn’t available for Galvo lasers, you must do this on hard mode.
Machine two square fixture plates, one with zero-clearance holes to fit all those pistons, separated by four legs long enough to put the pistons exactly level with the top surface. Drop the pistons into the fixture plate holes so they’re neatly lined up. You may want a third plate with matching holes atop the base plate to ensure the pistons sit flat on the base. Make the fixture plates from aluminum and you can pick the pistons out with a magnet.
Draw a square the same size as the fixture plate on a tool layer and center it on the array of circles you made for the holder. Group all that, center it on the LightBurn workspace, then Lock them to the LightBurn workspace so they can’t scamper away.
Focus on the top of the fixture plate, frame the square, and align the whole fixture to the frame square. All the pistons now sit at known locations inside the frame corresponding to the circles in the LightBurn layout.
Clamp the fixture to the table and you’re set.
Load pistons, verify the frame position to be sure, and Fire The Laser.
I’d try marking something like aluminum foil flattened atop the fixture just to be sure. 
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