I’m looking at the LlightObject DSP R6445G. Does anyone have any experience with this controller? I read the 6445 uses the U axis for the rotary. I only have x and y. Should I just go with the 6442?
Thanks
I upgraded my Chinese laser to a 6445 controller and it works well. You need to install special firmware to use the U axis for synchronized rotary with the X axis. That version of the firmware has some quirks to it, but seems worth it. I like that 6445 has a few more key that the 6442 doesn’t. Being able to quick switch from jog to step mode for moving the laser is helpful as is a numeric keypad.
The only difference is the console. It also has a higher pixel count display.
The pair of black boxes in the upper right are the motor drivers. Want another axes, add another motor driver.
I think most of us use the Y axis for the rotary? If you run another axis you will need a motor driver. If you look in your electronics case, it will have a pair of them, one for each axes. To add another axes, you need at least the driver. A motor would be handy… Make sense?
Yes it makes sense. I was just checking if I could just disconnect the Y and plug in the rotary like I do now. I currently have the Ryxon KT332n.
Yes it shows up as the 6442. I’m just experiencing some issues. I’ve read most of the problem is this controller.
These guys are good at what they do. If you have an issue you think is the controller you should bring it up. Most of us find that ‘someone’ in history has had this issue before. If it’s unique, that’s even better
Nail down the issue and ensure it’s the controller… That’s a lot of money to flush…
Issue is with rotary. I’ve completed the setup and found steps per rotation is 5100 and rollers are 42mm. I can move it the circumference and it rotates full 360 and stops on the original index mark. I also have the move speed turned way down to prevent jumping.
Problem is when I set up a project and frame it, it never returns to the starting point. It’s almost always 2-3mm off. Circle designs are a bit oval.
I’ve also had small alignment issues without the roller. I can just duplicate the roller one almost every time.
Wish I could nail if for you, but it is strange it’s off when you frame it.
I’ll have to think about it. Hopefully someone with one will notice us and chime in…
Good luck… I’m looking for a rotary, so I have interests…
I did find some troubleshooting on lasers123.com. That might explain my slight oval. I don’t think it would explain not returning to the exact start point. Here are the steps they recommend.
a. In LightBurn, create a rectangle that is 80mm wide x 5mm high.
b. Rotate the design 90-degrees so that the 80mm dimension runs along the round part of the cup.
c. Engrave the design.
d. Measure the rectangle in mm. (For this example, lets say it measured 95mm.)
e. Divide the measurement by 80. (e.g., 95 / 80 = 1.1875)
f. Find your current steps per rotation. (For this example, lets say it is 5000.)
g. Divide your current steps per rotation by the value obtained in step e. (e.g., 5000 / 1.1875 = 4210.53)
h. Test the value calculated in step g as your steps per rotation.
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Did you try that?
I have not. I needed to get out the door to work. I’ll mess with it on my next weekend.
I get that…
Take care and good luck 
I was able to try this out today. I had different results with different diameter tumblers. With the 40oz RTIC tumblers I needed to use 5250 steps and with the 16oz Walmart it was the 5100.
Wonder if we could get a rotary library so I can save different diameters with the steps.
This still didn’t solve the random home after framing. I ordered the 6445. I’m hoping I don’t need to order and setup a stepper driver and use the U axis.
They are different diameters… I think that’s always an issue 
When it incorrectly homes, does the display indicate anything unusual, like it’s reset itself?
Nope, just business as usual as far as it’s concerned.
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