Maybe.
According to the manual, RDC6445 controller outputs have a maximum current limit of 500 mA and include “reverse current protection”, whatever that is.
The solenoid valve has a running current of 200 mA = 4.8 W / 24 V, but that doesn’t account for the initial inrush current.
Destroying the controller’s output transistor will cost you a new controller, so I highly recommend protecting the controller with a cheap and easily replaceable solid-state relay.
I have one ssr laying around i could give it a try…
But now im confused one says its better to wire directly and other say its better with a relay…
Dont know what to do…
Connection of the relay is on +24 and wind?
Wind is the negative input of the relay?
If you are going to switch the mains voltage such as a fan, use a ssr. They switch on the zero point of the controlled ac voltage. Much better for the controlled device…
If you’re controlling air, you eventually have to switch it mechanically… so just use a solenoid.
Sounds like you’re confusing air and power somewhere… or confusing us…
Both of my air assist solenoids are driven off the Ruida directly.
The coil itself is not polarity sensitive as it will work both ways. Some have internal snub diodes, that makes them sensitive to polarity. If they have internal diodes the power lines are marked by color or other identifier, so you don’t have to add them…
I don’t think most of these have diodes inside, but I have definitely seen some that do. What does it take to wire red or positive to power and the other to the Ruida.
The Ruida mostly works by what’s called a sink output… Meaning you supply voltage to the device and the Ruida competes the ground to operate the device. Completes the ground and it being a sink output are synonymous.
Make sense?
Generally @ednisley is correct about a blown output transistor… however there are people that have opened these up and fixed them… I’d try it on mine before I coughed up the bucks to replace it.
I have no doubt that @ednisley would also… 
I’m very sure there are many of us that would love to have an extra one to fool around with, even if I couldn’t fix that specific problem.
I favor protecting an expensive controller with a cheap relay. Other folks prefer not adding an unnecessary relay. Either way is valid, both will work.
“Better” depends on how you judge the possible outcomes.
Man sorry to be such a painintheass ,but i have very basic knoledge on electronics,i mean i know what the parts do but sometimes its hard for me to just know how to wired them or were to apply them…
So what you mean is that the +24 is always on
But the wind is shunt with ground (negative) to close the circuit.
Resuming red on the +24and black on wind,right?
I
Thanks bro
I guess better is relative?
You can’t tell when a relay will switch the voltage to a device.
Could be at the worst time, such as at the peak of an ac wave, drawing excessive current from a cold device at startup.
The same occurs when they break the connection, it could be at the peak of current draw. This usually causes some kind of arcing between contacts, leading to a shorted life.
They can fail open or closed. I’ve had both many times. Closed is usually because something inside the relay fails, such as a broken spring.
The weakest part is the mechanics, not the electronics.
This is from a MTBF document on ssr compared to mechanical.
However, even with a variable MTBF, the life expectancy of a solid state relay will almost always significantly exceed that of an electromechanical relay. For example, the estimated lifespan of an EMR rated for 300k cycles and switching power to a load twice a minute for 40 hours per week is somewhere around 62 weeks. Conversely, a solid state relay or power controller has an MTBF of 7 million hours when used within specifications in a 60°C ambient temperature. That’s 799 years, or 41,522 weeks, which is 670 times longer than the EMR from the previous example.
I think they would need a dump truck to take away all the relays I’ve swapped out to get machines up and running.
I can’t see how a cheap relay will protect anything… When their mechanics fail internal to the device, they can end up doing anything…
If you look at the numbers, you would always go solid state of mechanics… I just can’t see sticking mechanical things in the path as being good common sense… Everybody else has pretty much abandoned electromechanical parts.
Ed and I have agreed to disagree on some items… but overall pretty much agree on these things…
The beauty is you get to choose. As he states, they both work.
Well thanks both of you ,honestly.
I feel like this post is already getting out of the main question.
And i feel like im ready to connect the wires😳
So i gonna hook it up somehow , and decide whether to use the ssr relay or not with the air solenoid
If i need anymore assistance ill post a new topic.
I hope next topic will be with something else…
And sorry if my english is not very good🫡
Ok cya and many many thanks!
If you’re using it for air assist, just run solenoids directly from the Ruida. If you want to switch on your fan or something, then use an ssr…
Don’t over complicate this stuff…
Having fun is the best advise…
Yes … it’s a current sink to ground…
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