Questions about beam expansion, cutting power and large bed-sizes (Glass tube CO2)

Let’s start with some introduction before I ask the questions: I’m in the design process of designing and building my own glass-tube CO2 laser cutter. I’ve done a lot of research but can’t find any good real world data/recommendations. I want the machine to have a travel-length about 1600x1000mm (63x39") and a CO2 tube around 130w. I’ll primarily use the machine to cut fabric as fast as possible as well as plywood as thick as possible, maybe up to 20-25mm (3/4-1") thick. Engraving is of no interest for me.

  1. In the real world, what is the longest recommended beam length before it expands too much and becomes bad at cutting?

  2. Is it better to use a lower powered tube with a shorter total beam length or a higher powered tube with a longer total beam length?

  3. How sensitive is the tube to movements and high accelerations? (Tube mounted on gantry)

Reasons for my questions is, because I’m designing the machine from scratch I can choose between a moving tube with a shorter total beam length or a fixed one with higher power. But because I want to cut fabric, it needs to accelerate and move fast. I’ll use AC servo motors for the machine, so they should be able to move the mass quickly without problems.

Here is 2 different designs, the first one is with a 130w tube and a maximum beam length of about 3000mm (118"). Total weight of the gantry is relatively small.

The second design is with a 90w tube, but with a much shorter total beam length of about 1400mm (55"). However, because of the tube, the weight of the gantry is much higher.

I know (from watching a lot of Russ/RDWorks Learning Lab videos) that for the most efficient cutting, the beam should have most of it’s cutting power right in the center of the beam. But a beam that diverges around 3mm/meter would be really big after 3000mm… :grimacing:

Which design do you think would fit the best with my requirements?

…That doesn’t sound right. According to your calculations, a laser beam should expand to 30mm (plus origin) in 10 meters… that’s just before my old flashlight has a smaller spread;-)
Anyway, Design no.2 is better suited for an RF tube in my opinion, especially if you want to go very fast. Don’t worry too much about beam spread/expansion, most large machines used in the textile industry do the job fine with a traditionally built laser machine, e.g. this one:

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If I understand the layout correctly, the tube will at the end of about two meters of stiff, heavily insulated HV wire and a similar length of cathode wire, all of which pass through a drag chain.

Opinion: This is a terrible design, because HV wire is not flexy and a wire / insulation failure can be fatal.

Traveling tube isn’t a terrible design. Most HV anode wire is flexible silicone. The wire could fatigue and break, not the insulation. It’s not a big problem with drag chain that enforces a min bend radius. You can put a tubular mesh of grounding wire around it to make it pretty safe. If the anode wire breaks, well, just replace it.

The coolant can be more of a problem, but it’s fine.

There’s only so much acceleration and jerk you want to put that axis through. The internal structure might not like being shaken around. You’d always raster along that axis.

The benefit may be more about less mirror alignment probs than beam size. I have a 1610 (1.6m x 1.0m= 2.6m total path length) collimated and the beam can fit on 25mm mirrors just fine, but it’s very sensitive to alignment probs. Our building is a commercial property with a thick concrete slab but when we had heavy rains a few months back it went out of alignment and was shifting constantly until the place dried up about a week later. The rains shifted the slab a bit and skewed the frame.

Oh, I can say a lot about this.

The parameters you need are the 1/e2 beam diameter (in mm) and divergence (in mrads, which is just another unit of angle like degrees). It would need to be very clear whether the mrad figure is for the half angle or full angle. Half angle is the angle from the centerline, full is twice that (side to side)

The high quality RF CO2 lasers (usually metal, though there is a ceramic type too) always give detailed specs on dia and divergence. Unfortunately,I have never seen any mfg of a glass HVDC-excited laser provide a beam spec on their tubes.

It is actually pretty low, though. I can say divergence on a “130W” Reci (glass tube mfg ratings are fictional units) isn’t very significant on a 1400mmx1000mm bed (2.4m travel)

What would the beam being “too big” mean?

Well, first off, a beam doesn’t inherently lose cutting power as it gets larger. And attenuation (loss of energy due to the air absorbing some energy) is not significant for clean air, but smoky air is another matter.
What happens is the beam assumes a larger dia when it hits the output lens. This does something opposite of what you’d expect, due to “diffraction rules” and weird “light is a wave” math-y b.s. When you double the beam diameter on a 2" focal length lens, the beam STILL focuses at the same point 2" from the lens. But, picture a 5mm dia beam hitting the lens, refracting, and forms a light cone 5mm dia 2" long, then if it continues past the focal point it forms the same cone inverted. Versus being 10mm at the top. Doing the math, a 5mm dia cone 2" long means the focal cone has is tan-1((beam dia/2)/2inch)= 5.62 deg half angle. 10mm is 11.24 deg half angle.
There’s 3 important effects here:

  1. The beam doesn’t actually make a focal “point”. It has a beam waist with its smallest dia at the focal point. And oddly, right near the focal distance, the cone stops coming to a point as instead has a nearly constant dia for a short distance, which mostly dictates how much your focus can be off and still wok, the “depth of field” or “depth of focus”. DoF scales with the focal length of the lens divided by input dia of the beam . So the 10mm beam has half the DoF. It’s very picky about the focus being exact. Warped wood naturally creates focal problems.
  2. Here’s the hard part to believe- the beam waist dia is dictated by well-defined diffraction rules. The smaller, the better, in theory. The beam waist dia scales up with the lens focal length, but also goes DOWN when the beam dia entering the lens goes UP.
    So, the wider 10mm beam entering the lens produces half the focal spot diameter. The area of that focal spot decreases by a factor of 4x and the energy density increases by a factor of 4x.

Incidentally, this is exactly the same effect you get from switching a 2" focal length lens with a 1" focal length lens, except the 2" lens with a 10mm beam dia will still focus 2" from the lens regardless of beam dia.

But 1" lenses are only good for surface engraving on aluminum with high resolution, and not much else. But the loss of DoF is not the only problem.

The thing is, CO2 lasers cut depth by a mechanism few people understand- it must be able to form a channel with near-vertical walls, then the laser energy is hitting the walls at very shallow angles and actually reflects off the walls losslessly down the channel, making a straight channel of about 0.2mm dia. But, to get captured, the critical angle is about max 9 deg from vertical. This comes down to a 2" lens with the beam dia of most glass CO2 lasers. 1.5" and 1" lenses- or a smaller beam dia on a 2"- can do fine engraving but cannot form a cut channel so they can’t cut. A 4" focal lens sounds better for capture angle, but it won’t cut as well- the focal spot dia is 2x and energy density dropping to 1/4 makes it bad for cutting most materials (thick foam is an exception where the 4" lens works)

Anyhow, the limiting factor is actually optics. You must get all the beam energy within the 20mm dia of the lens, minus the area where the mount holds it- more like 18mm. Why do we use 25mm mirrors with a 20mm lens? Well, the mirrors are used at 45 deg angles, so sin(45)*25=17.7mm before the beam is off one edge of the mirror. You can get 24mm-25mm lenses and larger mirrors, but they’re more expensive and the mirror mounts and cutting heads that hold them are notably more expensive.

And FYI the 1/e2 beam dia is not that ALL of the beam energy stops past that dia. It’s a cutoff point chosen for “most of it”. There’s still usable energy a bit further out.

So, is the limit 18mm? Or, to be able to capture all the energy, does the beam need to have a 1/e2 dia smaller than 14mm? In practice, that’s not what limits it. It’s how well you can align it. It can be VERY touchy to stay aligned at 3000mm, but with a good, stable frame, and good, stable mirror mounts and high accuracy linear rails, yes it’s very possible to build even larger. Also note that the timing between the two parallel belts (usually that’s Y, but would be X in your #2 option) has to be very low tolerance. If one’s looser than the other, during accel the length will stretch a bit and it won’t be at the perfect 90 deg so cutting corners at high speed at the far side of the gantry becomes problematic.

Bottom line, a 20mm lens has a max 1/e2 beam dia of about 10mm if you can keep alignment near perfect.

If you hit the lens off-center, it will still focus at the same point. So it vectors off at an angle to get there. It will form a slant, noticeable on thick materials. Won’t matter for cloth.

A “beam expander” does a neat trick- it will trade off to larger beam dia, but with less divergence. A 2x expander with a 1/e2 beam dia of 6mm at 2mrad divergence becomes 12mm with 5mrad divergence.

That’s generally worse for a glass CO2 laser. Metal RF-excited CO2 tubes typically have a smaller beam dia but worse for divergence, it will widen and cut very differently at 1000mm vs 0mm.

But, does it have to be that way? My technical experience with a focusable flashlight says otherwise. If you increase the distance between two lenses, the beam converges.

Your guess would actually be correct! If you can change the distance between lenses, the beam expander is now a “collimator”, and you can take out the divergence, even make it converge, though, as you may have noticed with the flashlight, it will not be able to converge to a small point.

ZnSe CO2 laser collimators are rare. Only one company actually makes them for general use. There’s even a 1:1 collimator- basically the same beam dia out, but you can trim the divergence. You generally don’t need one for glass HVDC tubes, you need them for RF-CO2. A >3000mm path length actually could be a case for using one with a glass HVDC tube.

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A couple of other things-

On very large beds, there’s some other problems- how are you going to exhaust that much air? You need basically the same cfm per sq foot of bed area. The exhaust fan will be huge and the building loses a lot of its air conditioned air per minute which must be continually replaced with make-up air from outside.

Manufactured steel honeycomb frames only go up to 1600mmx1000mm. Butting two together may not work so well, it puts the holding frame’s lip down the middle so material is forced higher there. Cutting off the frame lip in the middle there is one idea, but then the unrestrained honeycombs may warp upwards.

RF-CO2 lasers are probably WORSE for flying-tube (#2) arrangement. Three reasons there. One, they actually have coils inside the resonator, you can hear them ring out when you set them on a table. So that will shake all over if you have high accels. Two, they’re heavy. Three, usually they’re low voltage at high current which makes for exotic wiring requirements. Like a 100W true output RF-CO2 (which is going to actually be stronger than a “150W” glass tube) is 48V 40A. 40A wire needs to be 6AWG to avoid overheating, but also the combined + and - cables of 6AWG is 0.0008 ohms per ft of run. 6 ft of run means the voltage drops by 0.2V at 40a. The RF amps don’t like that, the input caps are constantly moving high current in and out. They wear out faster. Properly used, an RF-CO2 can run at near constant power for decades. It’s a lifetime purchase. So don’t stress the expensive RF amp like that. But, with certain 48V power supplies, they can use an “external sense” wire pair that DOESN’T carry the current for feedback and that offsets the cable voltage drop. It sees the voltage drop at 40A and increases drive until the sense wires at the head are 48.0v and will be driving 48.2v at the supply to do that. But, still, 6AWG wire or thicker needed.

On the other hand, consider a diode laser if this is just cloth. No issues running at high speed/accels. It’s lightweight, and (typically) doesn’t require water cooling. They can’t cut clear acrylic but they should cut all fabrics which is what you’re designing for. Main prob is eye safety and exhaust removal.

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Well, according to Russ Sadler, the beam of a SPT C70 glass-tube CO2 expands with 3.1mrad Which is more or less the same as 3.1mm/meter. And according to him, most glass-tube CO2 lasers expands around that number. Video below.

I do agree with you that for textiles, it should be fine. But what about cutting 1" plywood?

[quote=“Dannym, post:4, topic:181744”]
There’s only so much acceleration and jerk you want to put that axis through. The internal structure might not like being shaken around.[/quote]

I’ll be building the frame out of steel tubes, welded together. I estimate that the machine will weigh somewhere around ~3-500kg (660-1100lbs) when finished. Build a heavy steel frame, with lightweight moving components.

If I were to go with design #2, and the few times I’ll engrave, just raster with the Y-axis instead of the X-axis shouldn’t be any problems. :thinking:

I didn’t think it would be THAT sensitive! Do you have a RF CO2 or a glass-tube CO2? Have you cut thick material with it as well? Even at the end with the longest beam-length?

I don’t see the exhaust as a problem. Just put more big exhaust fans on there.
I live on the country-side in Sweden. The garage where I’ll put the machine doesn’t have any fancy AC units, the building is “self ventilating”. So venting outside is of no problem. :slight_smile:

Sure, honeycomb would be nice. But I’m thinking a knife-bed for cutting thicker wood and a custom made vacuum-table for cutting fabric.

I really like the design of this vacuum table. Even if my machine will be muuuuch smaller. :smiley:

No, it is not just for cloth. It will be cloth and thick plywood combined. If I build a laser this big I want it to be kinda universal, even if I’ll mostly do cloth and wood.

Maybe a dual-head laser would be an option? Both a diode and a CO2 on the same head. Am I able to have high cutting-speeds in cloth with a high powered diode laser?

A huge thank you to your massive reply, I need to get to work now. But I’ll reply later today, after I read (and understood :laughing: ) all of it.

I also like Russ Sadler and have probably seen all (?) of his videos, but the most lovable thing about the man, besides his fine English humor and modesty, is that he describes himself as an explorer and not as a Doctor in laser technology with a professorship on YT. Even though the man comes from the laser industry and has a fantastic knowledge of laser science, he explicitly asks to verify and test his claims and he himself has constantly changed many of his initial theories - that is/was, according to his own statement, also the meaning of his journey…

There is no reason to exaggerate such a simple thing as a (larger) laser. If you need a machine that can compete with a medium-sized Indian clothing factory, then buy an industrial machine. It is also, as standard, built with a stationary laser with a Ø20 or smaller lens and mirror system. They have no problem catching the mirrors and the lens with the enlarged laser beam, even after 3000 mm, and that’s the point. :wink:
However, mass production of fabric and cutting plywood (or other materials) do not belong together on the same machine in my opinion. It’s like using a butcher knife straight from a cattle slaughterhouse to cut a cream pie with, it won’t look nice and will taste strange.

In addition to these considerations, only the size of your laser tube (and the peripheral) determines what material and in what thickness you can cut. For industrial 25+ birch plywood, you need at least a 200Watt laser tube if it is also to be used for professional production, it is not the wood but the glue that determines it.

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Welding… not my first choice. If you don’t get it 100% square the first time, your options to tweak it are limited. Weld joints contract when they cool and you need high accuracy. This is especially critical with a large machine.

The types of error to think about:

  1. The two Y (or two X if that’s what you call the pair in design 2) must be parallel all the way down or it may jam.
  2. Frame twist- this confounds experienced people trying to do alignments where you can get the beam hitting dead center on 2 corners but not 3. Any attempt to fix this with a mirror adjustment will only transfer the error to another corner. The basic problem is the two Y (or two X) rails are not parallel when viewed from the side.
  3. Brand new steel or aluminum stock may seem “straight”, but you need REALLY tight tolerances here. If you use aluminum extrusion T-slot, like, you might find it’s got a “bump” in it in a certain place. Then you’d unbolt whatever vertical or diagonal support is beneath that and push or pull and rebolt the support there.
    Cold-rolled steel is much straighter than hot-rolled, but still, not perfect. Before linear rails were affordable, we tried to make a 10ft plasma cutter with 4" wide cold-rolled flats and bearing carriages with bearings pressing on the steel flats on all sides at 4 points. If you didn’t use cold-rolled, the 4" width wouldn’t be constant enough. Tighten the bearing pair on opposing sides for one point along the length would work but it would bind up or go slack further down.
    Cold rolled fixed that. The thickness and width were very well controlled. But along the whole 10ft length, they were not as accurate as they needed to be. Like just lying the pair flat with the narrow edge against one another, they didn’t line up perfectly, so the gantry would bind up where the distance between them changed. They tried to unbolt them and wrench them into place with ratcheting tiedown straps, but it was futile because trying to bend a 4" flat in that axis would require incredible force. And even if they got it “better” with the tie straps, when they tried to fix it in that position, the frame sprung out once the tie straps were loosened.

It’s not just the machine being able to take the accel. I don’t know how much accel/jerk an HVDC glass or metal/ceramic RF-CO2 can take. A long glass tube could flex and misalign the mirrors briefly, and you’d lose output during that time.

I’ve never seen the interior of an RF-CO2 laser resonator, but I know there’s an open-loop rf coil. I can hear it ringing briefly when you set it on the table. That thing wiggling around at high accel could disrupt output or even fatigue the copper and break it (unrepairable)

But, like I say, I have no experience on where those limits are. Rastering needs the high accel along the gantry, that’s no prob. You don’t need high accel most of the time on the other axis. Vector engraving small text needs it. But, like, cutting cloth, unless you have a zigzag edge, it could have really slow accel and have little effect on normal job runtimes. If you went real slow and took a second for every 90 deg corner, that may only add a minute to a job.

There is also a Design 3 and Design 4 option here. Make it like a vinyl cutter. Static tube and gantry.
Design 3 is the whole thing could be a bedslinger. Yeah, that could be a lot of weight to accel. And it would take up 2x the floor space for clearance. But it avoids slinging the tube around.

Design 4 would drop the slinging flat bed and just tractor feed fabric through, back and forth, like a vinyl cutter often does. It does slip some so it’s not all that accurate, and pieces will fall out as they’re cut free. Or worse, partially cut features could fold over. More thought would have to go into how that might work. Maybe temporary fixative adhesive spray on a feeder sheet with tractor holes and is somehow laser-resistant too.

I didn’t think it would be THAT sensitive! Do you have a RF CO2 or a glass-tube CO2? Have you cut thick material with it as well? Even at the end with the longest beam-length?

Collimated RF. All the desks in the room are 3/4" plywood cut on it from large stock.

With the collimator trimming out divergence, the beam profile very consistent from the nearest corner to the furthest

Yeah the machine misaliging after monsoon rains had me puzzled, but it clearly swung back as the world dried up. I didn’t want to believe it, but the correlation was undeniable. And I thought back to the few times where alignment went off for no known reason and I think it was also around the time of heavy rains. Otherwise, it retains its alignment just fine.

The temp and humidity were controlled by HVAC (and swings in temp have been worse at times with no effect on alignment). The slab is several feet thick. But there’s no other way the alignment could be affected other than the slab twisted or tilted under the machine.

I think if your frame is very rigid (and that must be more rigid the larger the scale of the machine), it might not twist when the foundation twists. Like if it would actually float a corner in the air it might not have been affected.

It might have made more sense to adjust the 4 leveling feet to compensate for twist in the slab instead of messing with the optics. Because that’s where the change originated; the relationship between the bottoms of the 4 leveling feet must have shifted.

Most people would use the industrial linear rails like these:

But I would recommend a different path- the wheels on external rod running surfaces:


The first type, those 4 carriages have a lubricated ball bearing circuit on each side. The bearings actually roll down the rail, so exposure to smoke and crud can foul the circuits. They have wipers on the ends to clean the rail and a needle port to inject fresh lubrication, but contamination is still a problem. And you can’t adjust a preload from one side to the other, so it can rock around a tiny bit which may be a problem for alignment.

The second type there uses wheels with conventional sealed bearings with a “U” shaped outer diameter. There are cams for adjusting preload. They don’t run the ball bearings on the exposed rail, so it avoids that contamination issue.
Also, they can travel faster. The first type has limits because those bearings can only go through the circuit so fast. A conventional bearing also has a cage that keeps the balls from contacting each other- remember, the adjacent bearing surfaces are traveling in opposite directions where they’d touch. And they would also impact each other all the time. There’s a hard limit where the speed of sound in the bearing material is exceeded and the bearing will be destroyed pretty much instantly. That’s high limit actually, but they do accelerate wear quite a bit when run at higher speeds.

For the gantry, this should be lighter, too. The first option has a thick solid steel rectangle cross section- it’s heavy, but not rigid enough to be the gantry. So you’d need to bolt it to an aluminum square tube and the combined weight is high. The second option is a hollow aluminum box that is definitely big enough to be the gantry all by itself

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Yeah, that’s why I was asking the questions. And I really appreciate all of your answers and inputs! I was unsure if it was a real-world problem or not.

I’m not a mass producer of any kind, just a hobbyist who want to make fabric and wood cutting easier. But when I build a machine, I want the professional feel of the machine, I don’t want it to feel like a hobby machine. One of the reasons I build the machine is for the build process itself. I’ve built a lot of stuff through my life, just not a laser machine. That’s why I’m doing all the research now. :slight_smile:

I don’t really understand your reasoning for a combined fabric and wood machine being bad tho.

In my mind, having a machine that is both high power and high speed shouldn’t be a problem. (Especially now when we established that the design #2 is a bad idea.) But my idea of high power and high speed might not be the same as yours…

For me, 130w is high power and maybe somewhere between ~10-20000mm/s2 accel on the X-axis and somewhere around 30-50000mm/s2 on the Y-axis (laser head). With a top speed of around 1-2000mm/sec. Cutting speeds are of course slower, I’m talking maximum rapids speed. I’ve done the calculations and those accels and speeds are within the limits of the servos, just need to make the machine handle them.

I’ve really thought 130w would be able to handle ~20-25mm plywood. Didn’t know that the glue was the problem. Thank you for clearing that up!

When cutting plywood, MDF/HDF, acrylic, in the thicknesses you plan to use, enormous amounts of evaporated sticky and smelly material in the form of steam/smoke are produced. This will undoubtedly condense on all surfaces in your machine even if you use a strong industrial exhaust. A very well-balanced air system is generally required to remove the “exhaust” from the process. However, you cannot simply switch from wood to fabric without cleaning the entire machine. It is not only the sticky exhaust that I am thinking of, but also the smell that will linger in the fabric.

I occasionally come across plywood with exterior glue, 3-4mm I can handle with 60Watt but not pretty, 5+ mm exterior plywood is not reasonably feasible (with 60Watt), it takes several turns and the material chars violently at the edges. Of course it should be possible with massive power, but this type of glue will always burn with ugly edges.
This is not the case with “laser suitable” (interior glued) plywood or solid pine and the like, the latter I cut neatly up to approx. 16mm. But it develops lots of smoke.

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Thank you for pointing that out, for a beginner I would agree with you about that. However, I’m working as a CNC-machinist in a low volume/prototype environment and have access to all the fancy tools here. Turning, milling, welding, measuring. You get my point. I’m familiar with high precision machining and also how much a weldment moves when you weld it up. I’d be designing the machine to be adjustable in all the right places for the mechanics to align. I haven’t decided how yet, but I’m confident I have enough experience to figure that out. It’s the laser side of things I’m new to. :grin:

Yeah, I was unsure about that as well, but both you and Bernd gave me good reasons why I was overthinking the beam length. I’ll be going with the fixed tube design.

Sure, it works with slow accels. But in my mind, where is the fun in that! I’m aiming for a high speed/high accel machine, but if it turns out problematic once it’s built, I’ll just turn them down. One of the reasons for high accel/speed is the servos as well. They are able to handle it. I’ve built machines with steppers before (not lasers tho) but I really don’t like them. Sure, they are great price/performance wise. But they don’t really give me the “professional machine” vibes. So in this project I want to learn more about servos as well. Should be a fun learning experience!

I like that you are inspiring with different kind of ideas, I don’t think those designs would fit the machine tho. This will be a universal cutting machine, that mostly cuts fabric and plywood. I don’t think having a moving table would be good there. Design #1 it is!

I’m not going to run an RF, but I’m curious how you managed to collimate it. I’ve seen some videos from Russ, but it didn’t seem like he found a really good collimator in the end.

Haha, yeah I can only imagine! Even with a welded steel frame, designed rigid. I doubt I’ll be that in the end because of the size. Even CNC-machines with the same size foot-print as the laser I’m designing, but 10x heavier and more rigid. Is still affected by the floor.

One way is to make it 3-legged. But no, I’m not going down that route and the problems related to it…

I’m actually leaning towards linear rails, I just have to choose the correct pre-load and bearing configuration. I do trust myself to make a good enough job with the mechanics to pull it off. Choosing a linear rail with X-type arrangement for both sides of the gantry, because it is more forgiving with the tilt of the carriage. But a O-type arrangement for the laser head, when only using one bearing block and the load hanging off to one side, it would benefit the added stiffness of the bearing contact angles.

It is possible to buy bearing blocks with heavy-duty seals, it should solve that problem. Or just some bellows to protect the rails. :slight_smile:

I have to think about that actually, at least for the gantry. The general consensus on the internet seems to be that linear rails is better tho. Even for lasers.

I didn’t think about that, thank you for clearing that up! I don’t think it would be a really big problem tho. Switching between a fabric-only vacuum table and the knife-table (for all the other materials) should be fast enough. And at least the fabric isn’t in direct contact with the gunk from the other materials. I’ll be cutting mostly different kinds on nylon fabrics, I don’t think they are as sensitive against odors as cotton.

However, it made a huge difference in the ability to cut thick material! But from what you are telling me and my use-cases. 130w should be enough power.

Servos can do great, but they have less torque at low speeds so they need more reduction.
Closed-loop steppers are great tech, cheap now too.

Steppers are hard to beat, TBH. Servos require fine tuning to stop exactly in a corner of a cut without ringing.

The more interesting hack I had in mind would be to direct-drive the pullies. Larger steppers have enough torque to do that. It avoids the small amount of springiness in the reduction belt. They could raster much faster (but only on an RF-CO2, HVDC excited tubes need about 1msec for the power output to respond to a turn-on or turn-off command. So above a few hundred mm/s the edges blur out. RF-CO2 is more than 100x faster to respond and effectively modulates at tens of KHz.

There could be a resolution prob though. The drive’s stated pulses/rev setting doesn’t guarantee what it actually does. Most of these have an optical encoder disk of 1000ppr(4000cpr), they can’t make a position between counts. So on a 25mm pulley, if we can go by counts (not sure it works that way) that’s 0.02mm of resolution. The beam spot size is about 0.2mm and 10x smaller than that was already the min criteria I came up with for "I can’t imagine it needs to be any smaller than this. Less resolution, I don’t know where it will really be a prob. OK, it will definitely be a problem at 0.1mm resolution. ". So, if it can really resolve to a count, this would just barely meet that 0.02mm "excellence’ goal.

Here’s what I discovered seems to be a surprising source of error on a big machine:
There’s a rod linking the double-rail axis. Normally Y. The stepper pulley could be located anywhere- center, on the inside of the rail, or even outside the rail.

But it looks like the rod may have some torsional springiness to it. It shows up more in larger machines since the rod gets longer and the gantry weight it’s pushing gets higher.

This makes for small cornering errors at high accel.

I thought about this awhile. If you just increase the dia of the rod (I think it’s solid), its inertia would skyrocket. You could do a larger dia aluminum rod maybe… but it has to couple into the drive pullies and it needs to be very well centered to avoid wobble

But, on a cnc router, we don’t mechanically link them. We have one stepper on each side. There are a lot of “unfortunate” crap systems out there that can’t home them independently like LinuxCNC can. When powered off, if you push on one side of it it will skew it and it will lock in that skew when powered up. They rely on the stiffness of the gantry to stay perpendicular when powered off, but it’s not very reliable. The Ruida wouldn’t be able to home them independently.

Anyhow, here’s my idea two steppers, each right at the pulley so no torsion springing, but keep the connecting rod. That rod just keeps them from being pushed out of sync when powered off. Once it’s powered up, the steppers lock theme together and the rod does nothing.

There won’t be a constant force on it while powered off. If you pushed on one side, the other side should follow easily without a lot of torque on the rod to wind it up.

Having worked with both for many, many service hrs- the u-bearing type is much, much better.

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Sure, they have higher rated torque at low RPM, but that drops off quickly. Also, it is possible to over-load the servo in short bursts.

If we compare a Leadshine NEMA17 stepper to a Delta 100w servo (40mm frame) You can see that the servo out-performs the stepper in every case, except for rated torque at really low rpm.

But for a laser, where the load is the same. Overloading the servo is only done in accel/decel and that short amount of time is no problem for the servo.

Also, with a AC servo I don’t need to AC/DC converters needed for the steppers, that makes the electrical system less complex/take less space.

But yeah, the only downside to the servo is the price. They are quite pricy. However, I want to learn more about servos and the tuning process, so it is worth it for me.

Yeah, you are right about servos, they need the fine tuning. And for most people that is probably not good. But I like the tinkering process and like that I’m able to optimise the movement for the machine.

Funny that you mention that. I was actually thinking about the exact same problem.

I did a few fast calculations about that about a week ago. I was comparing the stiffness/springiness of an stainless steel shaft to a aluminium tube of the same rotational inertia. And found that they are more or less the same.

A 1000mm stainless shaft, 16mm has a weight of 1619g but an inertia of 0,0518g/m2.

A 1000mm aluminium tube of OD30mm and ID28mm has a weight of 248g but an inertia of 0,0522g/m2.

If I apply a 10Nm load, the stainless shaft deforms 1,142degrees, and the aluminium tube deforms 1,107degrees.

That’s really pretty close if you ask me. I’m not an engineer, so I can’t explain why they are so close. Or if I did anything wrong with my calculations. But it is interesting to see.

I started to play with the thought of making a carbon fiber tube with the fiber directions at ±45 degrees. That is apparently the stiffest direction for torsional strength and stiffness. But I have no idea how to calculate that.

Are you sure about that? I’ve read the manual and features of the RDC6445, and it have a “Y-axis and U-axis feeding synchronously” feature. I’ve tried to do some research about it, but can’t find any information what it does exactly.

In my mind it is a dual Y-motor setup, that uses 2 independent limit-switches for each Y-axis so it can square the gantry when it homes it. But I don’t have any actual data on it, just a thought.

That would be a downside to using servos tho. I don’t know how each servo would affect each other if it was a dual Y servo system. Sure, there are more complex servo controlling systems out there, but that is pricey for real and don’t support Lightburn. I want to use the RDC6445 controller because it is so well supported by Lightburn.

http://shop.smc-powers.com/57AIM30-RS485.html

Not all servos are expensive. But “servo” is a pretty general term. A NEMA23 stepper, it’s almost certainly 200 steps/rev and its length will determine its torque.

I was trying to make a small 4th axis rotary for my mill with a servo. I do have a commercial 4th axis but I needed to turn much faster and mill lighter stuff. It wasn’t the 57AIM30, it was a JMC IIRC. But it wasn’t stable at rest. Once I put the load on it, it actually oscillated. I ended up changing to a stepper motor.

THAT may be a problem- they rely on a sensor and calculated feedback. Let’s consider a servo is a 7-pole BLDC with 14 bit angular position sensor encoder. 7 poles meaning it cycles through 7x rotations of its 3 phases for each mechanical shaft rotation. Direct drive 25mm pulley=78.5mm of belt per rotation. 0.00479mm per encoder bit, its max “resolution”. The beam is about 0.1mm dia, we need to be more accurate than that. This is 20.86 bits per beam dia. That’s good.

Let’s think of it starting at rest. Once it sees a difference between its commanded position and its actual position on the angular sensor, it applies a correcting torque. How much, though? That’s “complicated”. If it’s only 1 bit off, applying max torque could accelerate it hard and it would be -20 bits from the commanded location before it its next control loop cycle. Then it would apply torque in the reverse direction and we’re oscillating. So the first thought is we should maybe apply torque proportional to how far off it is, the “P” in PID control. But that’s if there’s no load on it. If this servo was lifting a water bucket out of a well and stops at a commanded location, the weight of the bucket its creating a static torque load. In that case the motor will need to drive out that much torque to maintain its commanded location. Proportional torque means the control would have to be pulled some amount away from its commanded location by the static torque to reach a steady state.

So, there’s a tunable PID controller inside to try to fit this to the application. But tuning depends on your application. In particular the inertia of what it’s pulling matters. There can be an issue there for dual independent motors on whatever the non-gantry axis is, because the head’s contribution to the net inertial load on one motor or the other varies depending on where it is on the gantry.

I know the AIM series has a programming plug. It’s RS485/MODBUS, on the other side of the motor from the step/dir/power plug. You download a Windows app to program it and there’s a lot of parameters that could be tuned, on that motor at least.

Closed-loop steppers mostly rely on the strong force electromechanically locking it onto those 200 poles/rev steps. Closed-loops are great, they don’t lose pull-out torque as much at higher speeds. They are programmed to recover if they are overloaded and get behind a bit (saw this when trying extreme rastering, but it caused no problem, it “caught up” within the extend space outside of the design area. And they have an Alarm signal if they have a real problem and can’t move.

Did you follow my proposed solution? One motor on each side, driven with the same step-dir signals. but still linked by a rod. But the rod’s only purpose is to keep them in sync when powered down, there should be no torque load on a normal horizontal machine. So there shouldn’t be any twisting in the rod even if it’s not super stiff.

Once the machine is powered on, the rod serves no purpose. Each motor is driving the load on its own side.

This would not be necessary if independent homing were possible.

Well, isn’t that the beauty of the servo then? To be able to tune it so it doesn’t oscillate. Sure, it depends on the servo/driver and the software, but as you say it is possible with the PID-loop. It also might depend on the motion ratio. The lower the motion ratio, the easier it is to tune. The good thing about gear/belt reduction is that it is a squared factor. So a 2:1 gear reduction gives you a reduction of 4:1 in the motion ratio.

I don’t have much experience with a closed-loop stepper, but when I did the research for the servo, it seems that those are not tuneable. And when you have an encoder on it to drive the stepper you have to PID tune it. (Well, the manufacturer did the tuning tho.)

No, I’m going for a single motor in the middle with 2 shafts out to each belt for the axis. It might be a great thing to do if I were to use steppers. But I’m not sure how good that is when using 2 servos. I don’t want them to fight each other. Sure, there are servo systems that support dual motor gantry but those motors are even more expensive. And I would need 2 of them… :smiley: