First off, I’m very new at laser machines. I’ve got a CNC background, but not used to cutting with light. I’ve been doing a lot of reading, and am quickly finding that I have a newer model laser without a lot of info on the internet yet. It’s an Atomstack X40 Max. 24/48w diode laser. I’ve been trying to use other people’s settings as a reference as a starting point as I learn how to set up my jobs.
Everything I read says every machine is different. And I get it that there’s a wide variety of different machines with different specs. But it would seem that power is power. I’m a bit surprised that lightburn does power settings as a percentage of the laser’s max power. As opposed to a more absolute number like watts (or mW). If I had a 40w laser, if I run it at 50% power, then it’s the same as a 20w laser running at 100% power right? Or at least close? Assuming that the machines can run at the same travel speeds, should I be able to scale settings from some other machine to work with mine? For example, if I watch a video of someone using a 20w xTool and he gives his settings. Can I just cut the power by 50% and expect it to work fairly closely on mine?
Linear assumptions on power and lasers is not correct but as a rule of thumb you can do what you are thinking yes.
However the problem with variables, on contactless engraving (vs CNC contact engraving) is that the response of the material to heat/Laser can vary imensly between my material and yours
So then you have a 3-4 levels of variables that can throw off the sharing of settings.
I would start with the most basics. Lightburn - tools menu - has power test maker tool. You can try a few test on raw scraps and start to gain a bit of a understanding on how the materials react.
If your wood engraves nicely black at 50% 20000mm/min, this does not necessarly mean you can run the machine at 100% power 40000mm/min and get the same results. You will be close, but maybe you need 100% power 35000mm/min.
In honesty, sharing settings might land you close but to really understand your laser you need to do a lot of testing, and scrap a lot of material
Thanks, that’s very useful. I’m mostly thinking along the lines of a getting started reference as I work for the first time on new materials. One of my main goals in owning the machine is to mark existing objects, as opposed to crafting things from new stock. So in many cases, a test burn on the actual object will not be practical. It’s one thing to be working with inexpensive stock, it’s another when you’re putting your logo in a $500 microphone. So I’d like to get close the first time. But as you mention, it’s getting to know the machine and how it works with various materials. For me, I’m sure it’s going to be a process of finding inexpensive stock/objects that are similar to the actual object I’ll be engraving.
You will have to gauge your risk factor. I would definitely not work with a 500$ microphone until I was very comfortable with, materials reactions (this comes with experience of course)
Baby steps are normally what I would recommend. From simpler to more complex and assume you will have to sacrifice some things to the laser gods! If you do, though, make sure to document on the piece itself what settings/Power etc.
This suggests you or somebody else has lasered the material on the microphone. The odds of both appear to be very slim. As @jchuchla points out, you will find no books, tables, manuals, or hints that will contain exactly the settings you need.
Maybe on the back of the microphone you can make tiny parallel test lines to help you get in the zone. If you do not disturb the target or the machine, you can repeat at a higher power if too light. Make them look like a factory marking or something.
New stock means new testing and no scrap to work with, so I know what you mean.
Great… these work the same way… speeds/feeds are just as important. You just got a different spindle or tool hanging off it… With lasers, they correlate speed with laser power and feed with how fast the material is moving past the head.
One of the big differences are that most natural materials are all different, unlike a particular type of metal. Many of the ways a laser actually uses the tool is a bit different than a bit, such as a variance in kerf, depending on the lens/material.
What’s missing is the ability to say at this speed, I need this feed for this material… no calculators like normal machining uses.
Are you planning on engraving this or marking it? I don’t know what the capabilities of your machine really are.
Most people don’t like the feel of an engraving on an object they must hold onto…
This isn’t any different from someone engraving a firearm…
You should find out what kind of metal this is and how it reacts to your laser before you damage something this is difficult or expensive to replace.
I use black masking tape on an object at lower power on my fiber when I use the rotary. Doesn’t help with power/speed but ensures it’s in the right place.
If you do, though, make sure to document on the piece itself what settings/Power etc.