Many of the manufacturers will actually provide a lesser “real” power tube and crank up the power supply (vastly shortening life) to make it act like a higher-powered laser. There should be a trim-pot (screw adjustment) accessible on the outside of the hight voltage supply somewhere to adjust. It would be a really good idea to turn off power when you adjust, or use a plastic screwdriver, to prevent shorting something inside the PSU or possibly zapping yourself.
Since the tube itself isn’t labeled, you have a generic tube that is almost certainly being over-powered to make it seem like a more powerful one. What is the diameter and length of the tube? That is a pretty reliable method to identify what the real power rating is.
If the meter was installed wrong, you’d get no reading, no laser, and/or an attempt to show a negative reading.
If you have a 1,200x80mm tube, it “should” be 80W rated with max current of 28ma and long-life max current of 25ma or less. That’s best guess since you have an unlabeled tube.
You can control max power to the tube in 3 ways;
Figure out what laser output percent in Lightburn is equal to 25ma and don’t cut at anything higher than that.
Adjust the max-power in the Ruida controller (assuming it’s Ruida) so that 100% in Lighburn is no more than 25ma to the tube
Adjust the power-supply trim pot to be no more than 25ma with both the controller and Lighburn at 100%.
Doing the last one is harder and can be a bit scary, but it’s the best way. If you reduce the Lighburn or controller power there is less control between power levels.
You probably are pretty close in your estimate but there can be variability for each machine based on tube and power supply quality so you are never going to know actual wattage output numbers until you get a laser power meter that can measure actual power output. FWIW, 55% on my 80 watt red and black tested to be right at 71.5 watts at 17.10 mA.
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