I’m trying to find the setting to straighten the framing red light. Seems like it’s at an angle.
In the image, the green is the piece to be engraved and the red is the laser. If I adjust the piece to line up with one side of the red, the other sides are off. I hope my image makes sense.
Any help on tweaking this?
Thanks.
50W Fiber 200x200
So if you engrave a rectangle, and then project the framing laser, you get the results in your sketch? I don’t believe there is a way of changing the skew of the framing laser without changing the skew of the source laser. How is the calibration of the lens?
Sorry for the late reply, I’m dealing with a bad case of the flu.
The image below might show more clearly the issue with the framing. One out of four edges line up. I saw on an LB facebook group post that the ‘Angle’ adjustment in Settings may fix it but haven’t tried it yet.
Ok, understood.
If I was you. I would run 9 point correction, then scale utility, then check skew and adjust if necessary, get your laser burning a perfectly square square that is exactly the right size. If you are running a 200x200, calibrate and then double check at maybe 100x100 and engrave on some black painters tape, then project the framing laser and adjust its scale and offset. The source calibration laser fields will not help with the framing laser, only screw up the source calibration.
See how close you can get, screenshot the results, take a picture of the framing over the engraving, and report back.
For taking a picture of the framing laser, set its speed to 6000+ and you will get a better image then the typical 3000
Thank you for all that, but some of it really lost me. I have calibrated the 200 twice.
I’ll try and figure the rest out.
OK, little chunks at a time. You have calibrated your lens.
This works really well with black painters tape but you can do it other ways as well:
Set focus
Burn a 100x100 square and measure it. All 4 sides 100mm? Here is the scale utility:
Measure it corner to corner. Both the same?
Skew adjustment:
Measure it from the edge of your bed. Roughly parallel?
That is the angle adjustment:
Burn another 100x100 square and double check.
Then adjust the red dot:
And report back with pictures and screenshots.
Good Luck!
Thanks again for the info and patience. I’ll try to tackle these today or tomorrow. Still not 100% over the flu. I have done the square alignment with the red light. I got it to be right on but I’ll double check and then on to the others.
No hurry. Just to be clear, you do the 9 point calibration with the source laser, not the red light. Get well soon!
I finally feel like doing something. Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
I’m trying to do the 9 point calibration, which I have done several times before with no problems, but this time the frame is way too big. Way too big. I checked the settings, and it’s set up for the 200x200. The 9 point screen says it’s 200. I lowered the frame size to 100 and it’s still too big. The focus is correct. This is after upgrading to 2.0.04.
Any ideas?
When you say you lowered it to 100, you mean here?
I’m not by my laser right now, but I would try to burn the 100x100 square even though the redlight is off the edge. Turn the power way down for the first test. Make sure you are in focus. Make sure rotary is off. I might have time this afternoon to try the 2.0.04 ver but I don’t have 200x200, do have a 300x300 lens though, I’ll try that. Might be next week though if I don’t make it today heading out for the rest of the weekend.
Yes, that’s where I put the 100. I’ll try it and see what happens. It is in focus.
I did an engraving right before trying the 9 point and it worked well.
No rotary.
No hurry and thanks.
I tried the various output settings (100, 150 & 200) and the framing size stays the same, about 235mm square. But, with each setting, the corners clip. The lower I go with the output setting, the larger the corners clip (miter).
I might try an earlier version of LB if I can find it.
I tried LB v2.0.0 and no difference. Calibration square too big, 235mm.
I tried correcting the original problem of lines not lining up. I tried various settings in ‘skew’ and ‘trapezoid’ and I could make the lines go FURTHER out of alignment but couldn’t make them go the other way. Seems LB does not accept negative numbers.
On your square with clipped corners the skew and trap should be affecting both the source and the framing laser the same amount as far as I understand the mechanics. If you are changing the redlight laser without affecting the source laser with skew and trapezoid something strange is going on. Unless I’m missing something.
Ran some tests. 175X175 F254 lens. BJJCZ Lite board. at 100% the square is almost 200x200, (with no corrections) but projects fine. Both the redlight and the source laser close to same dimensions
at 100mm setting 57.1% (Same lens) the projected square is 115mm.
So reducing the field size and test area settings scale reduces the calibration square projected by both the redlight and the source (on my machine)
LB 2.0.02
After running the rest of the test and then the scale utility:
So if you notice on the 57.1% test, it projects the vertical and horizontal lines off the edge of the screen but still makes the smaller box and is close to the red light framing size.
If I didn’t know any better, I would think you really don’t have a 200x200 lens installed if, like you say, it clips the corners even at 100 (50%)
So some more questions, I know, I know…
When in focus, how far is the lens off the table?
What method are you using to assure the lens is in focus?
Did you change the adapter ring?
Is the lens and adapter ring screwed in tight?
What is the numbering/ lettering on the ring, for example my lens says F-Theta Lens F=254mm
This equates to 175x175 working area. if you have a 200x200 installed, F theta would be like around F=290.
Let me know.
Here is a video with intentional skew and trap way off. Burn (Source Laser) and Framing (red Light) laser skew and trap identically.
A lot to digest there. I’ll have to get back to you. But I’ve used the 200 on other projects and no problems. I have also done the lens calibration before and it worked fine. I’m going to switch to my 110 and see what happens.
I’ll be back.
My guess is you already have the 110 on it
But just a WAG
Either way, take your time answer all the questions even if they seem stupid
I changed to the 110 and things are just screwy. I reset the whole thing (LB) and added the two lens devices back in.
LB says a design is 73mm wide, which is correct. but it’s framing at 120mm wide.
I tried the lens calibration but it wouldn’t burn the black construction paper, even at 100% power.
I focus by sound and light. Right now the lens is 130mm above the deck with the 110.
Things seem to be going from bad to worse.
OK.
What is the numbering/ lettering on the lens ring. Might as post the one in there now and the one you took out.
Post a screenshot of the device settings window Galvo and basic setup screen:
Checked a couple things on mine.
My 100X100 is F=160 and it measures 165mm from the table to the glass when in focus.
My 175X175 is F=254 and is about 280 from table to glass when in focus.
So if you have a 110x110 I don’t think you are in focus at 130mm. Not evven close. Should be over 160. Something to check anyway If it’s F-Theta is 110, then you have something like a 70X70 and 130 would make more sense, but I can’t find a F-Theta 110 lens on google to check.
Question, (I know, I know…)
When you focus by sight and sound, how do you insure repeatability, like for example focus stick, adjust a focusing laser, read the scale on the tower? If you are not burning black paper at 100% either you are not in focus or you have left the lens cap on.
Really think we need to start over. Piece of steel or aluminum known thickness
Mark a filled rectangle 1cmx1cm w/ LI 0.025 power 80% Freq 40-100 (not really important) X-Hatch on Speed 300. None of these settings are critical.
Clear count and set framing window to repeat or run continuous
. Crank the galvo up to the top, start there with the repeating or continuous burn and lower the galvo until it is making the most amount of noise. Go up and down a bit at a time until you are satisfied. Flip the piece over andd start there, go up and down a bit to confirm.
Cut a stick, measure, or what ever.
set your power to 30% and try to burn the black tape or paper. Then we move to calibration.
