I’m running a new Roly Lasermatic 10 with light burn on a MacBook Pro running 10.4. So far Lightburn has been great. My background is in graphic arts using Adobe Software. I found one glitch in light burn I would like to share. I was trying to do the full lens calibration with the circles. I printed out a number of sizes to get to about the size in your video and got one to work. However when I hit “Capture” it will next say “Processing” It will hang up on processing and won’t move to the next thing Unless I click off of LB onto my desktop or onto another App and then back to LB where it will refresh to the next move. I found this out after doing the first capture and waiting about 10 minutes for the processing to finish.
I will get lets say a 5 and it will say you can do better, without moving the paper I will do another capture and get a number like 686857493333. I’ll do another one, once again without moving the paper and get a perfect. I think I did about 50 captures to finally get the 9 I needed. In the end I’m still off about 1/8 inch at the corners. I’m going to try it again tomorrow, I’m also going to try to reload the camera settings from the thumb drive I got from Roly.
Camera calibration can be a fussy process - the issue you’ve encountered with the software hanging is commonly caused by attempting the calibration over a laser’s honeycomb bed, or other patterned surface. The background pattern overloads the search for the dot pattern. Covering the bed with cardboard or another un-patterned material is strongly advised. It’s also possible to perform the lens calibration step entirely outside of your workspace - the camera only needs to be in its permanent position for the alignment step.
Here are some additional tips on the lens calibration (and alignment) process:
Thanks for the information. I had a 15 x 15 piece of white board covering most of the bed, maybe a half inch of the grid was showing around the edges. I’ll try to cover the entire bed
As you know or maybe not know the the LB camera on the Roly comes attached to the enclosure. So the lid must be down. From your link for the video it looks like I can keep the enclosure down for the first capture then lift it up and hold the card for the rest of the captures? The camera would be looking out.
One more question… how large or small do that dots need to be? The one I got to work was printed out about 3.5 x 5 inches. The PNG is file opens much larger than that
I was actually not familiar with the Roly so thanks for the added context - I’ve looked up a photo now so I have a better idea of what you’re working with. You can perform every calibration capture with the lid up - you’ll only need it to be down when you perform the alignment step, so the target marker engraving is in its field of view.
The absolute size of the dot pattern isn’t important, but it should take up roughly 1/9th of your camera’s field of view, as shown in the reference photos of the calibration wizard. If you perform the entire calibration with the lid up, that can be achieved by simply moving the pattern closer toward or further away from the camera.
Re-reading, I notice you also mentioned Roly providing camera settings - did they come in the form of a ‘.lbcm’ file that you can import into LightBurn? Were you getting poor results when you used them before, or have you not tried that yet? Especially for the calibration process, if they’ve sent you presets, it will most likely be easier, and sufficient, to load them instead of performing that process yourself. If necessary, you can load their camera settings file, and then only run the alignment process yourself, to overwrite those settings, while keeping their lens calibration settings.
I’ll watch the video again and do another attempt. Yes Roly did supply a camera setting .lbcm file. Its not bad, however the corners are off about 3mm. My issue is I’m burning 4 inch round slate coasters that are 9 up and the coasters at the corners are off. I can do it 4 up place in the center and that would work but I would like to get the camera and bed as I can
I will try the camera lens calibration the way its done in the video, hopefully that will give me the results I need. If not I’ll reload Roly’s file from the thumb drive and go from there. Its not horrible but I would like to get it closer
To get a better result when calibrating, cover all the work surface with white paper/card stock, it will greatly improve the result as it will not get caught up processing background info especially if doing it on a honeycomb.
I understand what your saying but if I do the calibration per the video instruction the camera will be aimed at the inside of my garage (camera is attached to the lid of my enclosure and flips up)
Going to be pretty hard to white out my garage Lol
After some frustration and a tired arm I finally got the full calibration done with the circles. I have to admit my position is now better than the factory file I believe. I made a bunch of little shapes on the same 24pt board as the 1,2,3,4 test grid, ran them and hit camera overlay update. Everything was almost dead on. The 4 corners are still off about a 1/6 of an inch but I can live with that. I still have the problem of it hanging up,
