I have an Orion 60w, blue/gray machine and the bed is not level. creating headaches.
It looks like there are 2 specialty nuts (one to tighten, the second to lock) on the 4 worm screws and they are in an impossible location for average tools.
Does anyone know of the tool for this application and where to buy it?
Thank you,
Fish
if I have understood your problem correctly, then just loosen your timing belt and adjust the long screw or screws as needed. After that, the belt comes on again and is tightened moderately.
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Worked on that for hours. Counted cogs, clockwise and counter clockwise, trying to hold belt tight, but when the belt teeth enter the cogs and you go to tightening, everything starts shifting.
I thought it was a good idea at the time.
what is really aggravating, I removed the honeycomb bed and the main bed is out of level at a different height. Which means the honeycomb bed is out of level but compensates somewhat for the main bed.
T
That could be the problem. As I apply tension, the screws on the right move clockwise and the screws on the left move counter clockwise.
Either way, a pain in the butt. Rather make the adjustment at the source.
This is a pretty straight-forward and reliable mechanism. If you’ve removed the honeycomb, it’s arguably better. Remove the honeycomb. Loosen the idler pulley for the Z-axis belt. Remove the belt from the 4 corner screws. Adjust the four corners to the same height (move the gantry to each location and use a fixed measure). Carefully put the belt on all four corner screws and tighten the idle pulley just enough so the belt doesn’t fall off. Double check the four corners. Tighten and lock down the idler pulley. A small fraction of a turn shouldn’t have a huge impact.
When the frame is level, then work on the honeycomb. Keep in mind that the honeycomb will likely sag in the center and you can play all kinds of games getting it level. I put a couple of shims in different places between the honeycomb and the blade/slat bed.
Also, take a look at Fine-tuning and "final" results of a 700x500mm 100W Red/Black Chinese laser - #3 by sbach72n for an idea on leveling the honeycomb.
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I will give it a go . . .
Thank you.
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rojhan,
Took your advise and leveled the main bed, still it took two hours but I got the deflection down to .127mm and I am quite pleased.
I liked the idea of spring loading the honeycomb bed but took a different route. I used 4 springs, 1/2" (d) x 1". Don’t know the “poundage” but they were very stiff little buggers. I came in 5" from the ends (length wise) on the honeycomb, drilled and tapped holes for 1/4"/28 x 2" bolts.
The honeycomb bed is “dead on balls” accurate, or as tight as an RCH, whichever colloquialism you prefer.
thank you very much for the advise.
Fish
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I think you went a bit overkill on your leveling precision, but full props for it. I suspect mechanical slop is going to make it drift to at least .129mm deflection. 
In my experience with the red and black version of this machine I’ve noticed the honeycomb will prety much always dip into the center, and it annoyed the everloving crap out of me too for probably two days on and off, just when I thought I had the bed level I start playing with acrylic, watching the beam direction and I notice there’s a slight wavering in the straightness of my beam’s travel, and for some painfully annoying reason I can’t seem to get the travel to give me a true parallel path. What a headache!