Just like my Ender 3, where the only original parts left are the frame and hotend, I’ve been thinking of replacing the 5.5W laser on my Ortur LM2 Pro with a bigger one (10W or 20W depending). I started a small business (unintentionally) with the OLM2 Pro but quickly graduated to a CO2 when product demand picked up. I replaced the OEM controller with a Tim Rothman B-N-B 3 mainboard, and I love it. The OLM2 Pro is a 24V system and I’ve replaced the original power supply with a 6-amp power brick. I feel like the aftermarket for diode laser has settled down and folks have had a chance to get some experience with what’s out there. Long story short, what have you bought and how is it working out for you? For context, I use the CO2 for engraving charcuterie boards and cutting acrylic, the diode is for tumblers, pens, tippers (Irish drumsticks) and such.
How do you feel about also doubling your spot size? Can you cope with 200-250 DPI? My 20W spot is approx .1x.16 at best on wood. Sometimes more like .15x.25. Varies with settings and wood variety.
The higher power modules also seem to be poorer at producing dark engraving compared to the 2-5W modules.
I just added a 5W because my 20W can’t do a good enough job (IMO) with fine detail on small items and I struggle to get contrast. I like to do color fill, so that’s not a huge deal most of the time, but not every job can justify time/cost or work properly with color fill.
As always, YMMV.
I noticed this when I added a 5.5W module on my machine that had a 500mW.
I have speculated that the difference is an ssl is controlled by the pwm, when the signal goes active the laser produces full power during that period of the pwm cycle.
So it really isn’t the 20% power, it’s 100% power for 20% of the time … power/time.
The results are that the material is hit by a much stronger beam during the on time.
Compared to a glass tube, where you can adjust the current limit by the pwm and control how much power the tube produces during on time.
This is one of things I criticize about how K40’s are wired. They set the output power with a manual pot or 0 to 5V into the IN terminal of the lps … this is the current control. The pwm is used to turn the tube on and off, so it’s driving it like an led… When it lases, it lases at 100% power, if that’s where it’s been manually set.
This is effectively removing any real current control from the glass tube. I’m sure they pay for it with replacement tubes…
Just an opinion…
Good luck
