Hey guys im trying to do tumbler wraps on a normal style yeti using factory rotary from omtech… i have disabled setting so it will “shoot” the design but wont actually do it…it acts like its out of focus and messes up to go around the full cup is 317mm (way bigger then its normal working area) i dont understand how to fix this ive looked at topics and others who struggled and have come up short PLZ HELP ME!!
What do you mean?
Are you getting errors and from whom? What settings did you disable?
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@garrickc45 You will need to start at the beginning and describe step by step what you are doing. Supply some screen shots of your settings. More informtion the better, can’t give us too much. Chuck rotary or roller? What happens when you hit “Test”?
Alright so it’s a chuck rotary i currently am at work will post setting when i get home im currently am configured to run on Y axis just so the work bed has the longer sides my speed is 2000 power 100% 20w omtech using a powder coated tumbler….tumbler is level so and focused i frame it and it looks great (it’s a tumbler wrap so it’s off the cup but eyeballing it looks fine) its 90 height and 317 width (got 317 from the circumference of the cup 90 is measured to be the top of the 30oz tumbler bc i have no clue how to make it focus for the bottom half of the cup which is tapered) I have no clue what you mean by test I am completely self taught through this platform and YouTube and still pretty new to engravers as a whole so Bare with me on terms what I mean by shoot is start the engraver (shoot the design onto cup) I don’t have any errors besides it telling me that it’s out of bounds and then asks me to continue anyway (everything online told me to disable some ignore setting to make the tumblers wrap bc it has to be outside bounds will send pics when i get home…all measurements are mm i guess the overall problem is that I can’t figure out how to make this style of engraving work (full wrapping tumblers with and without taper) and I have to be doing something wrong
OK, lot to go over, start with a few that jump right out.
Test button, should rotate tumbler exactly 360 degrees and back if settings good. 0.025 is really small split for 326mm diameter. try 0.254 or 0.51 or 1.02mm (I’ll explain more later)
175mm x 175mm lens?
Should move this pattern “UP” on the screen, it’s OK to be “Out of bounds” end to end of the wrap but looks like you are also off the bottom which will not work. Probably need to move the rotary “Up” on the table as well.
(You say “Y” axis but it appears you are on the “X”, which is OK)
Yo can also tilt the rotary upwards at the bottom so the top edge of the tumbler is level. if you don’t have angle adjustment on the rotary you can shim it up.
To save time and real estate I would suggest practice on some small shapes to assure you have the steps and parameters correct before you try the full wrap. That is pretty aggressive for a first time project. There will be a lot of things you need to dial in to have success.
Stay after it, report back, good luck.
Unless your art has this taper computed in, it won’t match up… the taper isn’t the same distance around as the top…
Following @Albroswift suggestion, I cover my test mugs with black masking tape and run them at low power… I can see what it’s doing, if all is correct I peel off the tape and reset the power and run the job.
Al didn’t go into the split size, as promised… however I use a split size based on a multiple of the interval and the depth of focus for the lens I’m using.
Good luck
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Ha! Didn’t want to overwhelm the man!
I did do the math and suggested some splits without going into the theory.
With a chuck rotary, if you angle it slightly up to set the top edge level, or at least so the bottom of the tunbler is level with the top edge, the wrap will line up better then expected, it gets squished at the smaller end with each split a very small amount as it rotates around but at 360 degrees you still have a straight line matching the starting straight line.
Understand… the taper was just a comment, wondering if he expected a taper cup to match…
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Alright a lot to unpack here first off thank you so much for the info so my rotary is set directly in the middle of the work bench also switched it to Y axis (for some reason my laser just likes it more) split size I just set it to the minimum it would let me I don’t actually know what it does tbh in terms of tilting the rotary that is something I haven’t ever heard of before and would love a explanation on what that is for….side note this isn’t my first project with the laser or rotary just a version of engraving I haven’t tried and made me realize I’ve been basically brute forcing LightBurn to work bc how I was doing things didn’t work as I did more complex stuff based of depth of focus and stuff I have NO clue what that means
I did manage to get it to work again by brute force but don’t understand or know why it worked or how to get the bottom of the cup to have the design aswell
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If that didn’t clarify split size… sing out
Smaller splits work OK but slows the process down quite a bit. Angling the rotary so the top edge is level is for consistent focal length/ better focus. How about a picture where the wrap came together? Looks good from this side.
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