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You should see an water protection error on the Ruida console with WP1 being left open, if so, it won’t operate. If you don’t see an error, that input could be disabled in the Ruida configuration.
My input failed, so I have wired my water protect to the door protect, since I don’t use it. Either will prevent the machine from executing anything.
Generally, like mine, my chiller pulls WP1 low when it’s active.
Do you have some sort of coolant flow switch? You need too, it’s saved my machine.
Many K40 types have the coolant switch wired to P, unless it’s in a low state it prevents the tube from lasing. P is active low. The problem with this is the controller doesn’t know it’s failed and even thought there is no laser output, the controller continues on loosing where it was, making a restart difficult, if not impossible.
Simply, this means the controller has no way to know that the fault occurred.
If you use the WP1 input for the coolant being active and you have a coolant fault, the controller will halt all operations, giving you a chance to fix the issue and the ability to restart from where it left off.
It doesn’t matter if you use LPWM1 or L-AN1, although one is digital and the other is analog, the Laser Power Supply (lps) will convert it internally to a dc current limiting control voltage.
I stick with the digital signals, much easier to deal with.
I can’t see where the green wire is attached, so I have no idea on how the P input of the lps is actually wired.
Might want to take a look in the Ruida configuration and ensure you’re set to a glass tube and not RF. If it’s still set for RF, it doesn’t use the laser enable (L-On1), which is necessary for a glass tube.
Sing out if you have issues.
