can any one tell me why my y limit is out . my laser head is going to the extreme and hitting the rails
The usual suspects are a wiring / connection issue, or that the sensor has been bumped out of position.
Can you tell me where the sensor would be located for that? Im still new to this and still learning.
i was doing some glasses before this and everything was good im lost
It depends on the machine - some have a small lever switch and some use inductive (electronic) sensors that are like a reddish orange box about 1/2" square. It’ll be toward the end of the Y axis on one side of the machine, at the end it homes to. If it’s inductive, they have to be really close to a metal part to trigger, and sometimes get bumped out of position.
Once you locate the inductive sensor, push the gantry and head to the opposite ends with the power off. Do so slowly, so you don’t backfeed EMF into the controller. You can see the display flash if you go too fast.
Look for a cube shape with wires extending from below. If your machine homes in the upper right, one of them will be affixed to the upper right corner, making it easy to see. The other will be on the right end of the gantry, tucked out of sight on the back side.
My x-sensor failed recently (2nd time) and it’s the one that has the wiring feed through the cable chain. It wasn’t going to be the easy-to-replace sensor in the corner, of course.
With the rig moved out of the way, take a screwdriver in hand, pointy end away from you. As you power it on, gently tap the working sensor and you’ll see a light flash a couple of times and the head will stop moving in that direction.
If you’re quick enough, you can do the same for the other sensor, but probably not. Get your hands free of the moving equipment and power off again, then push things away one more time.
Power up, tap the screwdriver on the sensor that isn’t working. If it flashes, the head will stop moving and you can expect that Oz’s suggestion of ‘out-of-position’ is likely. If there’s no flash, get your hands clear and prepare to replace the sensor.
On the first failure, I had planned to swap out the working one for the non-working one, as a means of testing, but it’s just too much of a pain to thread the wiring through the cable chain, especially if your non-working sensor is the non-moving one.
Sourced from China, sold by many outlets, including eBay and Amazon, about ten bucks or so. Be sure to match your NPN or PNP type.
If you press the Z/U button on the controller and go to the ‘Diagnoses+’ menu, it will show you the status of all the switches there as well. If you activate one of the switches it should also light up in this screen.
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