40W Shieldless Replacement Plate


I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IN YOUR DECISION TO REDUCE THE SAFETY FEATURES OF YOUR MACHINE. ALWAYS make sure to use any class 4 laser in a safe manner and ensure any available protection is in place.

On my immediate first test run, I got annoyed with how low the shield rode above the workpiece. Any form of hold-down that might get close has to be very slimline. So I figured… I’d remove it!

I took the shield off my 40W and modeled it up to remove it. My goal was to have more open access under the laser so it doesn’t ram into my hold downs, and to help smoke clear quicker from underneath the laser. After my first test, the orange shield was already fogged up with smoke particles.

I’ve also included models with a full surround opaque shield (making the lens area solid) and a replacement with the window, you’ll have to source 80x15x1mm acrylic yourself, or salvage from your broken old one.

Models can be found here.

A bonus I found was the fact it gives me 8mm of clearance between the cone and material, so ~5mm of safe Z travel for cutting.

Reduce safety, increase capability…

18mm plywood.

Again, reminder, removing safety equipment is never a good thing to do unless you ABSOLUTELY know what you’re doing.

I started with the base in Luban of cutting 10mm basswood. 1 pass, 220mm/min. Works well for 12mm maple plywood.

Knowing I had 5mm of travel, and knowing I’d need multiple passes I sped it up a little and began trying a combo of pass/z-drop/speed. Ended with 5 passes, 1mm drop between each.


Noting the warnings above, Instead of making a new baseplate for the 40W, I simply trimmed the shroud off of the main plate then painted it with a reflective silver paint to hopefully reduce damage from possible stray reflections that might occur depending on the material being engraved.
I also removed the top cover and remounted the fan flush to top cover after removing the molded fan grill and original fan mounting bosses and hardware replacing it with an external guard and optional filter.
This significantly reduced the fan noise and gained me measurably more airflow through the unit.
I also covered the flame sensor (before the flame sensor firmware correction was made) because of it constantly tripping the unit off, regardless of the setting.

I personally didn’t want to damage the original plate just incase I wanted to use it in the future or sell to someone who has broken theirs by ramming into a hold down. I haven’t looked into the top plate yet, as I only just got the unit a few days ago.

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I ordered replacement top and bottom plates from
Snapmaker to return to original if necessary, only ~ $20 US, received in less than 2 weeks.
I also have never delved into 3D printing and this was the easiest way out for me.