Air pump recommendations appreciated?

I modified my air assist years ago so that the air comes out a small aluminum tube right next to the nozzle, like the setup that some mainstream machines use. The tube is on the front side so that the air is is deflected rearwards. The lens stays much cleaner now - any moisture that does come out (which is very rare - and then only for the first couple seconds) is not a problem.

Unless the output of the lens nozzle is very close to the workpiece there is no advantage for the air coming out of the nozzle vs a tube right next to the nozzle. If you use a longer lens then you can’t have the nozzle very close anyway.

With a longer lens you also need a larger hole in the end of the nozzle so that the wider beam does not hit it - which leads to some curious side effects, some sort of vortex is created which will actually suck material up into the nozzle and then onto the lens.

For the best nozzle based air assist some people will put a nipple (baby bottle type) over the nozzle such that it is almost touching the work. This forces all the air to go through the cut, and the nipples are easily replaceable. I am not one of those people.

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Can you attach a photo, sounds interesting.

Cheers

Sasquatch

I designed and built a controller for my compressed air system which incorporates a delay panel so when the pressure switch engages, an air dryer and aftercooler fan start. Then 45 seconds later the compressor turns on. This allows the air dryer to chill down for the recovery cycle and prevents me from having to keep the dryer constantly running. Automation. Its everywhere! :blush:

I used the laser cutter to make the mounting panel for the components in the controller box.

The large auxiliary device in the picture is the air dryer which (through refrigeration) chills the compressed air (hot and compressed air holds a greater amount of moisture) and drains the moisture. The added advantage is the way I have the system set up:

Right out of the pump, 200+ degree air is passed through the tube and fin fan powered after cooler. The after cooler alone drops the compressed air temp down to ambient and drops out a significant amount of moisture!

Think of drying compressed air almost like wringing a towel (but with a slight difference).

  • The towel represents air
  • At atmospheric pressure (uncompressed air), the towel is dry
  • As the air is heated and compressed, the towel begins to collect and hold water (wet air)
  • As the compressed air cools (or when going from a high pressure to a low pressure such as in a paint sprayer or blower), this is like wringing the towel out causing the water to drop out of the air.

So the initial after cooler wrings the towel / air out and that is automatically drained with the filter attached directly after. The air then goes to the refrigerated air dryer that takes the air temp down even further to near freezing. This squeezes even more water out from the compressed air. This water is automatically drained as well.

The DRY air is then stored in the receiver (the tank) and therefore I never have any moisture in the tank. And I never have any moisture in the lines. And I never have any moisture going to my tools or laser.

A small addition I made when I installed the system was adding that blue blower (in the picture) just below the compressor. It automatically comes on with the air dryer and pulls in outside air from the vent into the compressor shed (to help keep the heat buildup down). It makes a big difference!

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I can’t take a photo now, everything is packed away during my shop remodel. Here is a picture of how Epilog does it, notice that there is no lens tube - no need for one, the lens (and mirror) are mounted in open trays.

I also found the old SketchUp file that I used to make my 3d printed tube holder. The end of the air assist tube is slightly more than 1/2" above the workpiece, just high enough so that it clears the 1/2" x 1/2" by 2" magnets that I use to hold things down.

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Here is a low res image of my dual head laser. Our new machine will be here end of this month I’m working on re-designing A harness to cover up the wild wires and tubes so it looks a little more tidy.

Thanx for sharing

Cheers

Sasquatch

Hello all … can anyone confirm if the California Air Tools 10020C Ultra Quiet & Oil-Free 2.0 Hp, 10.0 Gal. Steel Tank Air Compressor can maintain 40 psi through out the Laser running for up to 30 min. ?

Thank You

Brian

I can say for certain that the 5510 can with my Thunder Nova 24. I’d be surprised if the larger one couldn’t, though it will depend on the size of the output nozzle you have - A smaller opening will allow for more pressure buildup.

Thank You for the reply … and you set the regulator on the Compressor to 40 psi right ?

Brian

I’d highly recommend the installation of a low range pressure regulator at the machine. This will provide much easier tuning of the desired air pressure for the specific job you’re running.

My air is plumbed in the shop delivering about 100 psi to all of my hose reels and to the laser.

At the laser, I have two regulators. One regulator controls the flow specifically for my blast gates linear actuators (which are automated to open when the fume extractor is running).

The second regulator is plumbed to the solenoid that is controlled by the Ruida and then routes to the nozzle.

@Stroonzo

Where did you purchase the hose support bracket and hose, I like your setup a lot

Cheers

Sasquatch

I’m not sure what you’re asking about specifically, so I’ll guess from the picture you referenced.

The blast gates and the actuators were purchased from amazon.

[Blast Gate](POWERTEC 70227 6-Inch Aluminum Blast Gate for Dust Collector/Vacuum Fittings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RSDH23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GQ.zEbWKWHTYA)

[Air Cylinder](Sydien 16mm Bore 150mm Stroke Air Cylinder Double Action with Y Connector and 2Pcs Pneumatic Quick Fitting (MAL16x150) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DYNXDV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nU.zEbWH5GPM1)

I made the blast gates pneumatically actuated on my own by creating my own brackets.

The air lines to the actuator are controlled with an electric 2 position 5 way solenoid valve Solenoid Valve along with the addition of a muffler / speed control.

[Two Way Valve](Baomain Electric Solenoid Valve 4V210-08 AC110V 2 Position 5 Way Inlet 1/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9GXJSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kZ.zEbBS8NEN4)

[Speed Control](10pcs 1/8 Pneumatic Muffler Silencer Filter Air Flow Speed Controller Sintered Bronze NPT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D47VNKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TV.zEbA5C1XWP)

Hi Jeff … Thank You very much for the reply and photos … I currently have a Chinese Laser with standard head 2" … so I’m thinking the opening on my Nozzle might be slightly larger? … I’m thinking of upgrading to the Nova 35 … I have ordered the Regulator that you have shown in your setup.

Thank You Again :slight_smile:

 Brian

I should note that I added an air intake plenum to my machine and that my machine is almost completely sealed when the lid is closed.

I have an outside / fresh air intake as well as fume extraction connected to my machine.

My fume extractor sits outside of the shop built into the exterior of the wall.

The blast gates on the intake and extraction are critical. Otherwise hot humid air will condense inside of the machine (because the machine is in air conditioned space).

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@Stroonzo

IMPRESSIVE !

Appreciate the information

Sas

Hi again all … I have purchased the Air Solenoid as in Pic … will I need to install 1N4004 Diode ? … and if so can some explain the proper way to install it … the main purpose for the Solenoid is just to have Air On and Off

Thank You for any and all help with this Subject :slight_smile:

Brian

Hello everyone … just want to take the opportunity to Thank the Members of this Forum for their help with the installation Guideline to install Auto Air Assist … I purchased the 10 Gal. California Air Compressor … I couldn’t be more pleased with the outcome … it has no problem keeping up at 40 psi ! :slight_smile:

My next question is can you toggle the air on through the Rudia Controller or through Light Burn ? … will I need to add a toggle switch and how would one go about wiring it?

Thank You all again :slight_smile:

    Brian

Ruida controllers have a ‘Wind’ pin on the CN1 connector. Using that to control a solenoid to enable the airflow is discussed earlier in this very thread:

Hello and thank you for the reply … my apologies for not explaining properly what I am seeking better … I have the Solenoid working as the machine starts to cut and engrave … I would like to have Air on when testing for alignment to protect the lens from clouding up … hence by passing the Solenoid or Toggle the Solenoid on from The Controller or Light Burn

Thank You

 Brian

Ahh - I do not have that level of control, I’m afraid. The air-assist flag is sent as part of the layer definition in a cutting file, it’s not something LightBurn has any direct interaction with. You could run a switch from the Wind pin to ground and toggle that switch to override the pin, but I can’t do it from software.

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