Also an opportunity to test whether your nozzle is perpendicularly mounted, i.e. the laser beam has a straight cut in its nominal area. This obviously assumes that the focus is set correctly.
The light material is 4.8mm poplar plywood and the dark is 3mm MDF.
It seems that the squareness of a boards edge is more a result of type of lens and where the focal point is placed. There must be more to the method you propose.
I used a normal 2 in (50.8mm) lens. I think people will be surprised how crooked the edges can be sometimes. Try it yourself with 3mm 50x50mm placing the small plate on each of the 4 sides.
Even a perfect square would fall flat on its face here, because AFAICT the concrete floor in my Basement Shop was laid by an award-winning team of cake decorators.
On the average it’s level, but all of my benches have shims under their legs.
Ed, as long as the result is good, it is secondary how we achieve it, most of us have a black/red/blue… from the same industrial district in China, I guess we’re all a little creative
Just as you have found out that you need shims, I have figured out that my laser beam could be optimised.
Btw., a laser machine in level is of course also one of the important factors for us to achieve reasonable results with the machines, (unless you want the water outlet for the tube to be +5 degrees to avoid air inclusions )