C3d and lightburn hate my k40

So far I was getting good tiles from my k40.

I then put in C3D and lightburn in it I have had nothing but problems

Slow speed
Crap images
Some times it just jumps to each step not funny

Just for starters so looks like I wasted $80 on lightburn and god knows how much on the c3d

My mirrors are aligned correctly

Not happy at all

Maybe go to the C3D forum and ask for help there. Or just complain about it in irrelevant forums and maybe it’ll fix itself. :man_shrugging:

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LightBurn for the C3D board is $40, not $80.

The C3D sometimes takes a bit of tuning, depending on the machine. It’s a drop-in board replacement, but there’s a learning curve involved.

If you post some specific results with “here’s what I got, and here’s what I wanted” we can likely help. As Blake says, general complaints without asking for or providing anything specific isn’t giving us much to work with.

Slow speed is likely Smoothieware - it has a limit to how fast it can process GCode. We (C3D and LightBurn) are testing changes I made to the Smoothieware code to improve this. You can also use GRBL-LPC which runs significantly faster. If you try to push Smoothieware faster than about 80mm/sec it can skip, which might be why you’re getting bad results with the images.

I am going to try grbl today as for fine tuning I’m not that competent to mess with setting g I second guess myself since the 2 strokes I suffered so don’t like to change settings in case I muck it up

I read that I need grbl to go faster than 80 mms

But if you could help me out by changing the file for me i would be truly greatful

PS OZ I forgot to post I found the answer sorry about the rant but I get frustrated fast these days

Want meet to be a complaint it was meant as a cry for help

In that case (and please take this as constructive, as it’s meant to be): if you ask for help, people here will happily give it, but if what you write comes across as just venting you may not get the answers you want.

For example, instead of saying, “all my results are horrible - I’ve wasted my money”, say “here are the results I’m getting and the settings I’ve used - what could I change to improve this?” or something along those lines.

I’d bet that most of us here remember the frustration of being a new user and the learning curve that comes with it, so in that respect you’re not alone.

It’s getting there slowly

A few small lessons needed oh lasergod OZ these images are lightburn no scripts

Not a god, just the man behind the curtain. :slight_smile:

Those results are pretty good - Still with Smoothieware, or have you switched over to GRBL yet?

Can you post a screen shot of the settings you used? (Double-click the entry in the cut list for the image to open up the full settings)

Make sure you have overscan enabled. If you’re using Smoothieware, don’t go faster than 80mm/sec (with GRBL-LPC the recommended max for images is about 200 to 250). Power will take a bit of time to dial in, but you can also use LightBurn the way you used to use the K40 - IE, just set LightBurn to 100%, and set the knob on the K40 where you did in the past. LightBurn’s power setting is a percentage of the power setting on the K40, so the two work together if you want to use it that way.

thank you about the power that’s what i have been mostly after this % is driving me nuts

no i witched to grbl

I didn’t use any of seans scripts i did how ever go into image properties and change gamma to 65 i seen that posted here some where before and set the image as you can see to dither 300 dpi speed 100 power was about 7ma

here are my settings

300 DPI is too much. On my 100w CO2s here, I run @ 190dpi, and I have a 2 inch lens. Even with a 1.5 inch lens, you’re not getting to 300. I think only those diode lasers can effectively use a higher DPI like that. I run photo engraving @ 100mm/sec speed, 18% power.

I haven’t bothered adjusting the DPI from 190 because it gives such acceptable results. Have you ran a dot test?

Gamma to “65” or “0.65”? Those are two very different settings. (you likely want 0.65)

300 DPI is feasible with a 40w, but you’d probably need better lenses and mirrors than the K40 comes with stock, and Blake is correct - measuring the smallest dot you can get out of your machine before they start to bleed together can be very helpful, otherwise you’re just burning away your detail.

What lens are you going to use to get 300DPI? Even the 1.5" isn’t going to give you that resolution. A 1" maybe, but I haven’t seen many of those.

I was getting 300 dpi Plus

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