My primary goal is to learn how to calibrate the laser beam. Secondary would be to ID the platform the laser is working on. I just calibrated the XY axis. I don’t know if I have Y control or not. Probably, but that will be for another day.
The laser is a 150 watt CO2, single head. I do not have a camera mounted currently. The controller is a Rudia.644XS.
I have pictures of the data plate and what appears to be the serial number.
Hi Steven
Lightburn Doc’s will get you going.
If your all set up with firmware and lightburn sees your device, establish your Homing ok and module travels as expected, load project/file, fix the Focus height above material.
Watch a few videos if need be..also in Doc’s.
Know/Search “how to ask for Help”.
Know how to post a screen-shot of various settings pages…This helps heaps.
Ask a specific question regarding that topic in the proper section of LB Forum.
Thanks, but not sure how that addresses my concerns above.
Hi Steven
By calibration, do you mean for the Axis or cammera.
I think I misunderstood your use of the term.
I think I meant ALIGN the laser. I have been looking at YouTube videos so far.
There are two methods used to align the laser beam. One that starts at the tube and centers the beam on every mirror to the lens. Very much an adjust and test fire approach with a lot of guessing. Tons of videos on this method
Then there is a more direct approach where you remove the lens and shine a laser pointer back towards the tube. More direct but you need that special pointer.
Aligning a laser beam is the most necessary maintenance task done on a CO2 laser.
That is what I have discovered while watching videos. I will try the first method initially. People have commented that the laser method eats batteries like crazy.
You only run the laser pointer long enough to complete the alignment. I use the second method and it’s very quick because you can see the alignment changing as you move each mirror. With the first method you have to imagine where the beam will go, sometimes leading to confusion. Kind of like GPS vs navigation by a paper map.
This is the tool from “American Fotonics” and there are many different opinions about it. For example, there is also some discussion about how he handles alignment of M1 in relation to the tube itself.
I personally would recommend learning mirror alignment the old, manual way. With a little practice and target holders and targets, which you will find here in the forum from several different people, (but quite normal tape will do it too), you will quickly become familiar with your mirrors and your lens.
Find the documentation on how the mirror holder screws work, it is not guesswork. A little precision work, a stress-free working environment and patience, that is all it takes.
I’ve collected some of the informative threads on the topic under the tag ‘allign-mirrors’:
Many people have used the reverse led approach. To me it’s like aligning the sights of a rifle from the target. I don’t think it’s very wise.
The major complaint from people is that it’s really only applicable to m3 → m2, there is no adjustment it can help you with m1… so you’re back to the scorch and burn method. Additional complaints are the technique you use, requires you to totally imagine the path and adjustment going backwards, along with the adjustments.
I agree with @bernd.dk that I’d suggest you use the scorch and burn method.
Even success with the reverse led will still require you to check the alignment, so it’s back to the scorch/burn method.
Russ Sadler has a pretty good video on alignment if you want to watch his video.
He explains a lot a anomalies that you encounter while doing this.
If anything, don’t fear an alignment.
Good luck
Yeah, I will be proceeding with the traditional method for sure. It seems to be more appropriate to this tech minded person.
Half way through… he speaks to all parts of my mind! But I am a tech.
Beauty of having a choice.
My machine is very similar to his setup, I’m using many of his parts.
Whatever works for you..
I don’t have ANY of his parts and wondering how to adapt his methods to my situation. Not going to upgrade until I understand it as it currently sits on the floor.
If you remember, I am working with a 150 watt CO2 laser on a pretty large table… 1000Y x 1600X mm.
A larger work area requires an even more precise beam alignment, even more so when you have a high power tube with a larger beam size.
Just out of curiosity, what is the lowest power lever that your tube will lase?
You should be able to follow his setup, at least to the tube adjustment.
I recently change out a couple tubes, so I’ve been down the path.
Use what works and what’s comfortable for you until you get more familiar with it. You will modify what/how you do things as you move along.
As you spend more time doing these things, the 
will come on.. so hang in there.
If you have question, sing out, there are lots of people here to help. 
I believe 20 percent is the low end to allow the laser to fire.
For sure learned a number of things to help even if we don’t have the fancy attachments. I will watch it a couple more times.
That’s reasonable. It seems like a larger tube has a higher power setting to lase.
My first one would lase down to about 9mA, but it was very dependent on temperature.
The tube may not have the best quality at low power levels. Some of these will lase in a TEM01 state, but it gets better as the power increases. This is why RF lasers have better beam quality, they are either a 100% on or off.
Take care.
Getting aligned is just step two for me. Hopefully next week. I already see some other things that I may need to ask about.