Camera from Cohesion3D originally had a 140°lens. It was way too wide for my machine - a 100Watt 600x450 G Weike machine (The device is configured for 650x400 in Lightburn). I replaced the lens with a 90° and it shows the bed area much better. When the lid is up on this machine it rests against positive stops so it is always in the same position when raised. The camera is mounted almost perfectly in the center of the bed looking straight down in the lid open position. Lightburn 0.9.11 running on Windows 10 Professional with all current updates.
Now for the issue!
When I calibrated I did need to use a box about 2’ tall in order to get the target close enough to the lens for a good calibration. I did all 9 points and got between 0.16 and 0.20 for the results on each - so that seemed like a good calibration.
I then ran the Calibrate Camera Alignment tool. I used posterboard for the target and cut it at 150% to maximize resolution. The alignment went well (but see note below) and I was able to precisely locate the cross hairs.
I then attempted to use the camera.!
This view shows basically what my camera sees - I took it with my iPhone held right where the camera’s lens was. It is very close to what the 90° lens shows.
Now for the root of the issue. Here is what I see in Lightburn. Note that the lens above is in the home upper right position. The Lighburn camera overlay cuts off ~50mm of the top, ~50mm of the right and ~100mm off the bottom of my actual work area. The left side looks fine except that the camera image is not aligned with the edge of my bed surface (it shows the 10mm gap you can see in the photo above).
Note that when I first attempted to use the overlay the Width and Height fields were pre-populated with “4.5” and the the position and offset of the overlay was really far off. At least with them set to “0” it is closer but not reflective of my actual bed.
I ran the Calibrate Camera Alignment tool a second time with identical results.
One last question: I notice that if I click the Camera Control “Update Overlay” button that the image will jump up and down a bit (5-10 mm) although I have not touched the laser, lid or camera (and as I mentioned above, the lid is resting against a positive stop). If I click several times it seems to “settle in” and doesn’t jump.
Note: is there a significant reason to 1) scan the upper right-lower left wedge in each circle rather than just cut the lines? On cardboard it was nearly impossible to adjust speed and power so that the cut lines did not actually cut the cardboard. And double stroking the numbers also cut them out. Seems like simple quick 1 pass strokes should accommodate paper to wood to masonite?
Cheers and thanks guys!