Hi, I’m currently working on designing/constructing a laser cutter for the local makerspace. Because of good prior experiences with Reci, I’ll probably go with a Reci T2 laser tube (90W-100W) — enough power for serious cutting while still being able to do (light) engraving.
As for the power supply, I’m thinking of getting the Cloudray MYJG-100W, mainly because of the built-in potentiometer that will allow me to limit it to 24mA output current (i.e. the maximum recommended current for a Reci T2) rather than its default 30mA. But… is it compatible with the Reci T2? I’ll have to admit that the electronic aspect of laser cutters is my weak spot — I’m not entirely sure what kind of signal(s) a PSU sends to a tube. I know that it’s at a very high voltage (around 25kV), and I’ve read that it’s a high-frequency pulse rather than a continuous signal… But that’s about it — I’d love to learn more about it.
Now, there is also the 100W HY-DY13 power supply, which appears to be aimed at Reci tubes (though mainly the Reci W2 I think). Its maximum output current is 28mA, but unfortunately it does not appear to have an exposed potentiometer to limit it to 24mA. I don’t like this, as it means the power will have to be limited using the (RUIDA) firmware and/or (Lightburn) software (which other users in the makerspace might — unintentionally — mess up).
Naturally, I’ve tried to ask the above question(s) to Cloudray, but (maybe due to a language barrier) I’ve been unable to get a clear answer. Hopefully some of you have some experience with the above. Thanks!
Sorry that I don’t have any these items. The Cloudray power supplies look nice but you can’t beat buying a matching PS for a given tube. Be aware there are Reci counterfeits out there.
As far as limiting power…the controller handles that. You would have to access controller settings in a special place in Lightburn that have nothing to do with running a job. It also has limits and calibration setting that they don’t/shouldn’t want to mess with.
I guess if you can’t trust them to stay away from those setting how do you expect them to safely operate the machine? Or not mess with the PS settings? If you don’t trust them maybe you should bag the expensive laser idea and switch to coping saws and wood burners?
Jack, I thought I saw a post a while back saying that the hole on the PS is an LED indicator showing the laser is being powered. Not talking specifically about the models in this post btw. So you could be correct.
Check the voltages. The PSU voltages must ALWAYS be higher than the tube. Otherwise the PSU will try like hell to supply what the tube needs and toast the flyback transformers.
Have a MYJG-100W. You need to get the OLED screen with the external pot that plugs into the RJ45, it’s like $20.
I think there’s a way to set it with a potentiometer, but I got a bit confused as the Chinese laser mfg already had those pins occupied so it’s not even clear what to do. Just get the OLED one, it’s cheap.
It’s meant to fit in the ammeter spot up front by the panel, but you might bury it inside the frame just so people can’t dial it to another power. Or, you could take off the knob, saw off part of the shaft and slot it so you can still use the screen up-front while making it clear this is not a user adjustment. Again, it’s a surprisingly cheap add-on.
But, the digital screen is less useful than analog needle meter, IMHO. You can better see where the peak is. So, I’d say bury it by the supply.
