Hi.
I am using a falcon 2 40w, with the rotary roller atachment.
when the job is completed, my lines does not match up. It seems that either the roller is slipping or not gripping properly.
At first it was slipping of the leveler attachment, but I sorted that problem first. It still did it afterward again.
I reduced the movement to 300mm/m @ 20% power.
Am I doning somthing wrong?
Most of the best jobs on a roller are done by making the graphic a scan type, not a vector.
Two things hurt roller type rotaries. First is there is nothing really holding the mug/cup down to the rollers.
Second is the acceleration of that axes, might be fine for the gantry, but may be too quick for the roller to cup friction.
Save your current configuration somewhere safe, as this would be the factory settings.
Then you can slow down the acceleration values for that axes. I have multiple machine settings files for different rotaries and operations.
Make sense?
Put some rice in the tumbler to press on the rollers a bit or use a wide rubberband on an area that touches the rollers but not where the engrave is happening. The knurling on most rollers is much too fine to grab a lot of materials. The chuck rotaries are superior for this reason
Thanks I appreciate it very much. Do I just do it incrementally? or do you have a specific value for the roller?
The rice is a neat idea, thank for that. I was think how can I make the glass heavier and did not come up with a solution. Thanks for the advice.
Do you maybe have a picture for me to show where to put the rubberband, only if possible.
I will in the near future buy the chuck rotary.
Thanks for all the advise
Just somewhere that isnt gonna get a laser beam on it. No pic sorry…
You will have to test it on your item. I wrap some wide masking tape on the object. I can run a job and mark only the tape. This lets me ensure it’s operating correctly, before I do an actual burn on the object.
My acceleration values with no rotary is around 6000mm/s^2. Using the PiBurn, I lower it into the lower 100’s. I have these setting stored in different Machine setting files. You can slow this stuff down to the point it’s painfully slow… Keep that in mind.
You need to analyze the actual problem… the mass (weight) of the mug is too large for the available traction/acceleration to rotate it…
Adding mass may help, but the actual problem is the mass for the object is too large for the acceleration to work properly and this adds to the mass that must be rotated. So this solution exacerbates the real issue of mass/traction… ends up being a critical balance. I hear people using a bag of marbles, bolts/nuts including smaller sand bags…
In the end you are adding mass, which is the reason it’s failing… Many people do this, but it’s a touchy balance of mass/acceleration values… I prefer to change the acceleration values, not increase the problem by adding mass to the target.
One of the reasons I purchased a PiBurn was it’s got hold downs built into the rotary. I still change the acceleration, but it’s a very nice system that cost me dearly.
I have both a chuck and wheeled rotary and use both on the co2 and fiber.
Both have pros/cons … I can put a much larger diameter item in the wheeled rotary than I can the chuck can hold.
The chuck is better at vector engraving than the wheeled rotary, no slippage. If I use the wheeled rotary, I usually have to make some kind of adjustments based on the size/mass of the object if oversized.
Having both types, I can use whichever rotary that is best for the job…
This does work, under the right circumstances. I had a set of mugs that would not get traction from the wheels. I ended up using double sided tape and sandpaper to get traction and control… I don’t buy those mugs anymore…
You get to chose which works best for your situation…
Good luck
I dont agree mass being too large for acceleration. Traction, yes. Its a 4x4 stuck in mud issue. If the rollers are slipping by the object, its spinning too fast for the available traction applied by the mass. By adding mass you gain traction and contact with the rollers. I agree that if your acceleration is still too high for the material itself, it will still slip, which is a different issue. I guess thats why 4x4s have low gears and high gears right? The main issue is friction being so low on 2 smooth surfaces that you just get slippage due to the 2 materials / knurling too fine. They should provide silicone rollers for glass tumblers and other smooth materials. Theres always multiple ways to solve this stuff.
My opinion. Have fun playin around getting the settings right! Its always rewarding when you nail them down.
Holy mother of pearls…$850! With chuck $1500…made by…boss laser. Oh yep price checks out 
i would havw to save up for quite sometime to splurge on somwthing like that, but its quite the impressive addon.
I think it’s more like a 4x4 on ice trying to accelerate. The added mass will increase the pressure at the tire/ice area, but also can make the initial problem of accelerating a heavy object worse by adding more to the weight it has to accelerate.
Much like a dragster, making the horsepower is easy compared to getting to the ground. They don’t put heavy weights on a dragster, just adds to the problem, they enlarge the tire/pavement area.
I’ve solved this on my rotary by adjusting acceleration … which, IMHO is the proper way to ensure it will operate.
As I said, how they solves it is up to them.
