Show us your examples
I like the look of it, it gives depth to the center object like its printed on screen.
I’ve wondered the same, but more specifically about scan angle. I guess one could adjust that scan angle to 45 degrees, set the lines per inch to a really low number, and slow the speed down to achieve what you pictured.
I never thought of doing that using scan angle, but it would make sense.
I’ve always been hesitant to scan on Y because of the added mass of the full gantry, but that cross hatch effect wouldn’t use nearly the same speed.
I’m going to play with this. I haven’t seen the video yet, so it would be interesting if I am on the same track as to his process.
I’d say my process of acheiving this result is much more simplified than the approach illustrated by cuddleburrito. Leveraging LightBurn’s layer configuration on the fill, this required no editing of the artwork.
In doing this experimentation, I have also learned of an amazingly effective method of pocketing a piece (creating a 3D effect) by accidentally having too much power applied on my first trial. Essentially, running an engrave with a very low lines per inch (around 50) with higher power does a much cleaner pocket than higher lines.
My first attempt started with these settings:
But the result was the unexpected pocketing. Wow, I am going to remember to use this in the future.
Then I tried a few more configurations ultimately to prove this out with the following settings:
We are going to learn something every day until the day we die. Nice work!
Excellent show and tell. This should be able to help a few peeps out on future projects.
The cross hatching under increased power acts like a chisel chipping away the wood but instead of chipping it’s burning it.
This method is quite good for creating engraved images on cardboard. The “usual” method turns the top layer to ash and presents the corrugations in an irregular pattern, while the cross-hatching method presents the best results. I err, however, in that I used a 45° angle for single direction wide-spaced pattern, not cross-hatching. Cross-hatching would have tossed quite a few tiny squares into the air, leaving a rather mottled pattern within.
Do you have my show and tell @fred_dot_u?
I neglected to take a photo and the box on which the engraving is applied is now almost 500 miles away. The package won’t be opened until Monday, but I’ll convince the recipient to snap a photo if she can.
There an even more simple way of doing the cross hatching. No need to have two independent fill layers set at perpendicular scan angles. You can set a single fill layer and toggle Cross-Hatch!
I guess I never thought to use it in combination with a 45° scan angle:
Oh boy, that’s a cool dragon!
When scanning at angles that aren’t horizontal / vertical, LightBurn runs them using normal vector cuts, so you need to adjust your min/max power settings to get clean results. Just an FYI.
…even better !, but you need to put the dragon file on the top here on the page so everyone can engrave and cut out this beautiful logo and put it on their laser machine.
Funny you say that because look where I ended up putting that one I made for @Sasquatch’s show and tell:
Do you have some painters tape and a couple of spray paint cans at home?
I would love to see this version
Painted in the official colors BLACK, Red and White
Maybe you can help the dragon out with his horns.
I believe the 3D version painted will look AWESOME !
Awesome show and tell @Stroonzo. Who would have thunk my question would lead to your amazing skill being further “exposed”
@Sasquatch, is this close enough?
That is very nice!
Dammit… now I need one of those.
Attaboy! That’s awesome !
Now paint the wood and use black in the upper left. What I like is the relief of the dragon standing out kind of like coming out of a cave.
Is the red painted Acrylic? Very awesome. What are the dimensions of your art piece.
If only you knew someone that had a laser…
Really nice response to that challenge