OK This seems to be a hit and miss situation for me. This seems to be a two part scenario.
I have 150mm x 150mm (6in x 6in) tiles White Gloss “Big Box Store” Tiles.
I paint them with Black Gloss Rust-Oleum 2x. Let Dry and burn
-OR-
I paint them with a Colour (R,G,B etc.) of Gloss Rust-Oleum 2x, wait for the tiles to dry and repeat with a topcoat of Black Gloss Rust-Oleum 2x. Let Dry and burn.
The outcome is quite nice in either attempt. Now comes the problems…
Sometimes either:
a) I topcoat the finished job with CLEAR Gloss (or CLEAR SEMI-Gloss) Rust-Oleum 2x. And as soon as the Clear Coat is applied, the finished job underneath CURDLES, and the paint layers lift up! YIKES!.. OR
b) I spray on a Colour Coat of Gloss Rust-Oleum 2x. Let Dry and apply a coat of Black Gloss Rust-Oleum 2x. As soon as the Top layer of paint hits the lower layer of paint, Catastrophe! Once again the paint Curdles up like spoiled milk!
I have attached 3 images which shows the outcome of this mess.
Michael, This happened to me, and it is because of the incompatibility of paint and top coat… try to use a water based polyurethane… I am using MINWAX, and it does not smell too… hope this helps
Ceser, you are totally correct! Andrea, my Wife tripped upon this idea, and that is exactly what she ended up doing to all of our 6in tiles! The worst that I noticed with her applications are on very dark tiles, for some reason it likes to pool on an edge or 2. It goes on milky, and dries clear. I’d rather go with this look over the Blisters that are a hit and miss with Rust-Olium paints! At least they are issuing me a refund for 3 of my cans used in my projects! Can’t say too many companies would even entertain this idea now at days! 5 Star Service!
Enjoy your upcoming projects and thanks for thinking of our situation.
I often had/have similar issues with a different paint. The devil is in the details. My paint specifically says to recoat within 4 hrs (for top coat black) or wait 48 hrs! They are not kidding. For metallic sprays I wait 4 days to top coat. For the clear coat finish, I also use an acrylic clear. I was a commercial and residential painter for 34 years and I know it seems counter intuitive not to use oil on oil, but todays polymers can handle the bottom coat being oil now. I wash, dry, and coat right after the burn and every 30 mins or so. Usually 4 coats. The acrylic clear does leave ‘splatters’, alklyd does not, but I now also wait 4 days using that as well. It leaves a really bad taste to ruin a project after hrs of work.
Thanks for sharing this valued information! I have also found out via trial & error that using the Brush On product, Varathane’s Professional Clear Finish Water Based Gloss gives the strongest protective layer to our tiles, and it never blisters up.
yes, this has happened to me. In fact, i gathered about 30 photos from 20 other users, sent them into rostellum and they told me it was all of us doing it wrong??? i replied letting them know that 30 people are NOT clear coating our tiles wrong. These tiles had cured for 2 weeks before any coats on them. Rostellum does not want to take accountability that they made a mistake and made a product that is incompatible with their own paint.
Hello" A_C –
I had that same problem when I first started. I finally figured out that it was not the clear coat brand, but rather it was me !! 98% of everything I burn is ceramic tile. All I do is spray at least 4 to 5 coats of VERY, VERY light thin coats of clear coat. let each coat dry for couple hours and add another coat. Keep going till the whole thing is shiny. just my 2 cents here, hope it works for you. I don’t have fish eye or scaling anymore.
Randy
