I’ve searched around and couldn’t find an answer on this. A few times lately, I set my “Start From” to User Origin" (this is what I always use on flat work) and I do something like update overlay of camera position and I don’t realize it till it’s too late, but the Start From selection changes to “Absolute Coords”. This is usually on a long run and after I do my frame check on the wood. So I never recognize it until some of my job starts and cuts off the side of the wood.
Actually, after re-reading your original question I’m not sure if this will do it since you’re saying Start from is being overridden by the overlay operation…
If you’re using the camera to align work, it has to run in absolute coordinates, or it can’t send the job to the right location.
I could feasibly add a switch to disable that behavior, but if you’re using the camera to align work, and you otherwise normally work in Current Position or User Origin mode, I think you’d find you simply have the opposite problem now - IE jobs lined up with the camera wouldn’t go where they’re supposed to.
I use “User Origin” and then frame the job. Today, I was running a nested sheet of ornaments with very little extra room on the sides. Once I got that mapped out, I place my magnets in places where I think they will be safe (in between ornaments). So then I snap adjust image again to see where the magnets are on the screen. I quickly start the run after that if they’re okay, because in my mind I had “user origin” selected and mapped out my run. This caused my whole job to shift left and two ornaments were off the side. I guess I just have to learn now to switch it back when doing this approach.
Is there an advantage to starting from “User Origin” instead of working exclusively in absolute coordinates for your workflow? It wasn’t clear to me from your description.
Just so I can move my laser to where I want it to start from and hit Origin on my machine. In a lot of cases for me, I’m setting it to where it will fit on a sheet of wood that has already been ran before and has spots I have to work around. So this route always seemed to work best for me. Hope that makes sense.
I see. Have you tried placing your design onto the camera overlay directly and relying on LightBurn for accurate placement on the unused portion of the material? I had thought this was the primary use case for most people in using the camera and hadn’t considered an alternative.
