Easy way to achieve black engraving on wood

(Allen Massey) #3

Yes I was in a hurry to see how the Marsh ink worked and I forgot to set the focus. So the line width it wider than it should be. I will do it again with better focus.

Update (with warning) ------------------------------------------------

I thought I had just forgot to set the focus, but when I just now started a new one I made certain I set the focus (using auto focus from the “Focus Z” button in LB). Then when I checked Start, I was watching closely and I saw the bed of my laser raise up about .5 inches before it started scanning ! Then I remember that yesterday I was trying to get the multi pass option in LB to work with an adjustment in Z height for each pass.

LB did not seem to be able to control the Z once the job started so I when into the “Decide Setting” and turned on the “Enable Z axis” switch thinking that maybe that was preventing LB from controlling the Z between passes.

It did not fix the multi pass problem but I forgot to turn off the “Enable Z axis” switch. That seemed to cause the bed to move before it started cutting today. I have no idea why.

So I turned the switch back off and now everything is back to normal. So big warning, for Boss users, leave that switch turned off!

(Harold Fieger) #4

What are you using to mask ?

(Allen Massey) #5

I use the GreenStar Layflat Classic Transfer medium tack from USCutter. So far it has been doing a great job.

(fred ungewitter) #6

I like the no-prep aspect of the stuff, and the price isn’t bad at all. Not far off from ordinary spray paint, if there is such a thing.

I’ve been previously applying a water based sanding sealer, then sanding it a bit and applying a second coat which dries before masking and engraving. The problem with this is the water based stuff warps the wood, although I’ve minimized it by applying to both sides.

I use high-tack from US Cutter for my masking but may not have to be all that concerned in the future. I picked up a brayer (ink roller) to ensure that I get good adhesion to the wood to reduce the under-flow of the paint. Another aspect of the stencil ink that’s going to be a time saver.

You must have Amazon Prime to get it for four bucks and change, as they are listing six bucks shipping! I’ll have to ask my friend to use her Prime account! I see they have different colors too.

(Allen Massey) #7

Yes, I do have a Prime account at Amazon.

(Allen Massey) #8

The $4.05 per can price is only if you order 3 cans at once.

(Adrian Siemieniak) #9

Just apply your masking to the wood, engrave then spray with the Marsh

So, what do you use for masking?

(Allen Massey) #10

I describe the masking in this same post

(Dave) #11

Would love to see a video of how you use this

(Allen Massey) #12

Not much on making videos, but I can answer any questions you have. It’s a pretty simple process.

(John James) #13

This stencil ink looks promising esp if it don’t have the problem with bleeding in to the grain of the wood… Have you tried the brush or roll on marsh stencil ink yet or only the spray cans??? I also noticed Marsh makes a dabbing style refillable brush and a roller applicator for the non sprayable stencil ink…

(Allen Massey) #14

I have only used the spray

(Willy Ivy) #15

I have been using Laser Dark for about 6 months now. I use mostly brown to keep a closer look of natural engraving but the black is amazing.
I too have been experimenting with other paints. I have used approximately 12 different types and colors of paint. I think the key is, it has to be flat paint.and sprayed in light coats. Problem is black and white are easy to find in flat but not many other colors. Other colors also take more lighter coats to achieve a uniform look in the wood grain. Don’t get in a hurry and spray too heavy or before the previous coat has dried or you will have junk.
Most of what I do I do not spray a sealer on it just as I do not spray a sealer on unpainted engravings unless I want a shiny finish. For my work, I mostly do not want a gloss.
Some projects, I do not mask before engraving because it is not hard to sand away the over spray and gives the raised unlasered wood a nice crisp look or blend the over spray for a more rustic look.
It is late now so I will try to post some pictures of finished and maybe a few in the process of being done.

(Dave Jones) #16

How does this differ from traditional black spray paint? Am I to assume its thinner and soaks into the wood easier?

(Allen Massey) #17

I have not used Laser Dark so I do not know what it is, but the Marsh Stencil ink is basically just black pigments suspended in a very fast evaporating solution so when it sprays on the wood there is no (or very little) wicking. Your standard rattle can spray paint is designed to penetrate the wood and soak into the fibers to provide protection and good coverage.

(Willy Ivy) #18

This is the process that I use when I do not mask first. Laser Dark sands off so easily if sanded within a few minutes that I find it is faster to sand than mask. If it is something that needs to be more durable or glossy, spray with sealer.

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2x4 pencil holder set up using LB camera.
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Apply Laser Dark (brown for this ram) using overspray template for less sanding. (The old 1x6 lumber with the deer on it in the background was done using wide mask tape. The two boards will be aligned, fastened together and the sides cut off).
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After Laser Dark applied and overspray template removed. (Ones on left waiting to be done and right side ready to be sanded.
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Same pencil holder now being sanded to remove the overspray. (The stack on the left have already been sanded and the right stack waiting for me to get to them)
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The same pencil holder less than 10 minutes after laser. (In the background are some other projects using the same process.

(Blake Bartlett) #19

Dat sweet, sweet trademark infringement.

(Dave Jones) #20

I wonder what the results would be if using the Marsh Stencil ink in the same manner that Willyivy used the Laser Dark?

I kind of hate using stencils tape. Seems the paint/ink always bleeds a bit and causes boogered edges. If the stencil paint could be easily sanded might be the way to go.

(Allen Massey) #21

I have not tried to engrave without taping first. But I would imagine that it would work fine with the Stencil Ink as long as the engraving is deep enough so that the sanding does not remove the engraved lines.

I may test it when I have some time this week.

(Willy Ivy) #22

Deep engrave is the key to sanding afterward.
If using mask and say one of the insides of a B blows out while engraving, you still have to sand that to make the job right.
That is why I prefer sanding over mask on some work.
I don’t like the cost of the Laser Dark but it works. I have spent way more time and money trying to find something cheaper, same as Cermark. Just figure into the job or just be more proud of the job is ok for me.
As far as infringement goes. I usually purchase the downloads that I use if I can not find them on an advanced google search for images that are not copyrighted, even for commercial use. Put in your google image search, say for example, Harley Davidson logo. After images load, now go to settings, advanced search, put in your filters, go to the bottom of page and click on images ok to use, even for commercial use. I do not use the advanced search for things like tractors, some clip art or animals. Should I? I’m sure that MANY of us are on the infringement border line when it comes to much of the stuff we are creating with our lasers.
BTW, I have been asked to do many engravings on many different materials and objects that I could not take the job because I was worried about the copyrighted logo they wanted.