If you watch the Laser Everything video on photographs, it’s a perfect guideline for setting your lpi/dpi for any laser and any material… It is one of the most important and often overlooked settings. One of the Lightburn developers who created the dot width adjustment speaks about how it works and the bennifits. I’d high suggest you watch it… then, at least, this part of the question will be solved forever.
I have a 40W machine, so I doubt mine will help… I also have my settings under the lens I’m using… you didn’t mention if it’s the stock lens or how long it is…
If I’d have known about using the device type to specify a library, I would have had multiple co2 entries, one for each lens… That’s what we do with the fiber machines… the configuration holds the lens correction values.
I have an 80W CO2 Omtech. For my cups, I use 300mm/s, 0.1 line interval and 25% power max, 15% min. I’ve now done over 100 cups with that setting, all different colors.
Thanks Jack,
I’m always up for a challenge and to learn new stuff…
And, yes, I’m using a stock 2" lens…
I really want this one to come out with that sparkling stainless steel finish…
The black paint/powder coat on this cup seems thicker than other cups I have seem and at $37/per cup, I don’t want to be running back to the store to purchase another one !!!
Hey Texaswoodcnc,
That is very close to my machine specs…
do you ever get that dull look after engraving ? Where it seems to leave residue that wont clean off…
Yeah, when I was running tests, I had a few cups come out like that @ 20% power. I jumped to 25% and it cleaned right up. For 60W, I’d jump to 33%. (Effectively, 20% of mine is 20W, 20W on yours would be 33.3%.)
LOL…
I have done some SS cups also with the spray for black finish…
I don’t get that many o]rders for cups…
Truth be known, this cup was a gift from my kids that they had my starbucks drink recipe engraved on, for Christmas… and it got lost !!! So I just bought another one and am trying to replace it…
OK, did some playing on an old ruined cup till i got close…
loaded the Yeti and did some tests with little 1/8" circles below the name at the bottom of the cup…
Fnally got the shiny SS result… 75mm spd - 27% pwr - .10 interval
Did all the lens/mirror cleaning before hand as well…
Don’t know why it was so far off your settings, but it’s done !!!
Great job Bill. I’m trying to laser engrave some Yeti’s with my Diode laser. Makes me wish I kept one of my CO2 machines. The diode marks it good enough to read, but it doesn’t get down to the bare metal like the CO2 would
Only thing I’d look at is your scanning offset adjustment. Looks like you’re just a bit off yet. Try another with the same speed and turn off bi-directional scan to see if it comes out cleaner.
@MrMag I’m getting great results on various tumbler brands, including Yeti, with a diode laser- Neje A40640. Biggest factor I have found is that less power yields better results when it comes to ablating powder coat off of ss, to get a shinny ss reveal. Process and laser specs here: Yeti tumbler etching - #8 by bLouChip , and see the posting it refers to for more info and pic.