Hi all,
Former Makerspace Epilog and now-owner of a Boss/Ruida LS-1420 65W running Lightburn, primarily making etched wine/pint glasses. I’ve had some rough starts it seems translating my existing images over into LightBurn, but I seem to have found my stride for most things, thanks to some kind strangers on here. I still have a few questions:
1.) I am trying to really dial in on high quality, detailed vectors on glassware. I’m not talking about etching photos, but just vectors, but I need clean, crisp edges. What I fond on occasion - and it seems to be largely random - is some chipping, despite using the same quality of glasses that I always have. Something like this:
I can’t tell if I am overpenetrating, or underpenetrating. I also am just now playing with turning OFF bi-directional filling, to see if I can get a more consistent look. I also just learned about Min-power, and have dialed it down to just above the point where it etches, but I’m not sure if this will do anything on an engrave. Are there any more settings/techniques to explore?
2.) Similar to this, when I was using an Epilog for glass engraving of vector images, I would choose a raster setting, such as Stucki, Jarvis, etc. I was able to tell the difference, and honed in on the one that I liked the best. In LightBurn, I see that rastering is available for images, but explicitly NOT for fills. For fills, it seems the only option is “lines”. I’m trying to better understand this, and perhaps see if this is related to my issue. Is there a fundamental difference in the laser tube type, an intentional method of Lightburn, or something else? I also have PhotoGrav, which I suppose could be a prep step before getting into Lightburn, but then I would be stringing three image programs together for designs that are…let’s face it, not really that detailed.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all,
Warren
