Gradient test. This will work?

Hello everybody!
So… I intend to do a gradient test for my laser machine.
The machine in question is a 450nm 5W diode laser
I leave the file attached.
Do you think this works or just in theory?
Gradiante test.lbrn2 (474.1 KB)

1 Like

It will execute, if you’re expecting a grayscale across that range, I think you’ll be disappointed.

Most materials (which you didn’t mention) have a very compressed range of white to black.

How did you settle on 0.05mm interval?

I’d suggest you watch this video by Laser Everything on photo engraving… They do an excellent job of explaining how to pick the best interval for the job. They cover what you want to do, albeit a fiber laser, what they suggest will work for any laser using any material.

It will be well worth your time.

We’re here if you hit a spot, so to speak…

Good luck



I ran your program twice. I think I see what you are trying to determine. You want to use it to set the MIN and MAX power settings for images, right?

I had to dial the second run back from what settings I normally use for etching wood. The final depth at the 100% end was about 1.5mm on the first try, which is quite deep. Even the second was noticeably deep, but darkening did not start until the 20% mark, so 100% MAX is still too much.

Unfortunately, your scale is not translatable because your MIN was like 16% or so. You should have set the MIN at Zero. A diode laser will control down to near zero power. Also, 318DPI is the best resolution you can hope for. 500DPI means you are over-burning the adjacent paths.

I actually see this info as being useful when I do images. Just keep adjusting the settings until I get a good light-to-dark pattern, then use that to help guestimate workable settings.

Based on your scale, it appears my (10w) image settings for power would be 15% MIN and 70% MAX @ 4000mm/m for Baltic Birch plywood, when using the Greyscale mode.

Maybe now my output quality will improve!

P.S. You only need the “0” marker to show where the light part begins.

1 Like

I modified the file, hopefully to make it obvious of the usefulness.

Gradient Range Test.lbrn2 (489.6 KB)

1 Like

Thank you very much for the answers mates!
I’ve only read them “diagonally” and I’ve already realized that you answered much more than I expected. :wink: :+1:
I will reply you according to your answers but at the moment my job don’t allow it and I don’t have time to do it properly. :wink:

Not enough time to do it right, but plenty of time to do it over?

1 Like

I don’t exactly understand your question or if I just didn’t make myself understood.
What I intended to say is that I only had time to come and look at the answers and little else. :wink:

Meanwhile, responding to your initial replies:
I was expecting answers like “it depends on the materials”, “it depends on the color”, it depends on something else or even a simple yes or no.
But you prepared, and well, much more complete answers with much more content than I was expecting. :wink: :+1:

You’re absolutely right.
So,… It was a disappointment. But that disappointment came because the material I buy (supposedly for laser engraving machine) In reality it was for laser printers and laser photocopiers. (Damn stationery sellers that were warned it was not for laser printers!!!)
Shortly after starting the test I realized that the material was not suitable.
The video you suggested,… yah, I have seen it a long time ago, I have to watch it again. :wink: Thanks.

Ok,… I forgot to warn you not to give importance to the settings. The file is created very quickly without attention to these types of details.
Sorry. :blush:

The file sharing was just to be seen and not tested because the only setting I configured was to put the image in grayscale.
Sorry, I didn’t intend to test the file to see if it worked.

What I intended with this was to create a label with a representation of the brand’s logo in gray scale where I would also include the model and serial number of the machine. This is because I maintain many identical machines that work in very dirty environments. So the customer regularly uses a cleaning product that must be identical to the thinner because it erases the data from the original labels, this is when they do not paint the devices including the label. Just seen. :joy:
Because of this, the maintenance history is lost because it is impossible to identify the machine.
My idea was to create a laser-engraved label that would not be possible to “erase” with thinner or the type of product they use to clean machines. It doesn’t work if they paint over it, I know, but fortunately they don’t do that on all machines.

Thank you very much for your time. :+1:
I will test it when I find a sticker material suitable for laser engraving and not for laser printers as was sold me.

For now, I used the remaining material from what was sold to me and made a label in “Word” (text editor) and printed it on the laser printer to unravel and deliver the machine to the customer.

Yes you did, I was just trying to interject a little humor.

Thank you for the kind words! When somebody asks what time it is, I tend to respond with how to make a watch.

I actually use this to add color images to some wood burn projects.

True, but I found a use for it. Hoping to soon see if my thinking was right.

  1. Mark Stainless tags (biz cards) with your laser.
  2. Burn the image and numbers deep into wood tags.
  3. Use 2-layer badge material from acrylic blanks. Test with solvents to determine durability.
  4. Give the painters a dollar for every tag label they do not clean or paint.
1 Like

I thought so, but as I comprehend English but have some difficulty understanding it correctly, I often use Google Translate to “Help”. The translator does not “recognize” Portuguese from Portugal, only Brazilian, which is a Portuguese with a lot of influence from the American, which in turn (for the Portuguese) is the “Brazilian” of English)
In short, Brazilians use different terms than Portuguese for the same meaning, hence the confusion. I try to “filter” these errors but I’m not always successful. Then, with some frequency, try to clarify the issue.
I’m sorry I didn’t understand the joke, but it’s not your fault, it’s mine. :wink:
Thank you for your humor, it’s just a shame I understand many days later!!! :joy:

Indeed, It is with great pleasure that I read your suggestions, opinions, advice, etc.,…
I try to do the same, with some difficulty expressing myself but I try. Always trying to avoid complicating more than simplifying. (I’m not sure if I will always be successful…) :innocent:

Yes, with colour/black&white laser printers it look´s realy fine. It is a label in polyester resistant to water and UV rays. This is intended to be exposed to weather conditions.
This link could be helpfull for you:
This is the result using Lightburn to draw the logo (tracing the logo doesn’t work as well as creating it again), transferring it to the text editor to print directly on the laser printer.

If you found a use for it, go for it.

1 - That has my first idea and still my goal but I have a lot of difficulty getting samples to test. Only in quantity, and then include the financial part of the company in the mix too…
Afterwards, my laser machine seems weak (not very powerful (5W)) for working with stainless steel, anodized aluminum would probably be more successful.
2 - Wooden labels were very well applied as badges saying (I’m an IDIOT) on the forehead of those who erased the labels and painted over them. :laughing:
Not so much in industrial machines (milling machines) surrounded by oil vapors, filings projected in an incandescent or very very hot state. :wink:
3 - I had some expirience with acrylic/plexiglass, it could be an option If it weren’t for the hot filings and solvents that will probably damage them.
4 - It’s the best idea I’ve heard so far. Furthermore, it is more affordable than having to make replacement labels even in euros instead of dollars. :laughing:

Thanks again! :+1:

An easy way ( I think ):

  1. With your labels durabright ink, a laser printer or thermal printer with special papers
    Impressora de etiquetas térmicas VEVOR, impressora de etiquetas 4x6, fabricante de etiquetas térmicas com reconhecimento automático de etiquetas, suporte Windows/MacOS/Linux, compatível com Amazon, eBay, Etsy, UPS, etc. | VEVOR PT
    (I’ve had a Brother p-touch label stuck to my car’s belt guard for 17 years and it looks practically new).
  2. Double-sided transparent film glued to the painted side of the label and then glued to a polycarbonate protection plate. No thinners or oils can get in.
    (I made a label with Durabright and double-sided film, which has been stuck to another car’s window for 10 years without any changes).

Another translator: DeepL Translate: The world's most accurate translator.

Please do not apologize for the translation issue. I too use Google Translate a lot.

AMERICAN english is thr most difficult language to learn in the world. It is very context sensitive, where to, two, and are pronounced the same, but have meaning in the sentence. Not knowing the country of the poster, because they used Google Translate, I sometimes I use American humor where I should not.

I was a maintence man in a machine shop (10 acres under 1 roof) for 10 years, so I am very familiar with the environment. I can only offer that you locate the labels where the chips cannot hit them. Near the machine operator might be a good location.

1 Like

I am very grateful for your suggestions. :wink:
Labels made on a laser printer are not my first option, but by becoming aware of the viable options available, it becomes a possibility. :wink:
Thank you very much, I’ll think about it! :+1:

1 Like

Here in Portugal we are very familiar with homophones words (words that sound the same but have different meanings) and we have a lot of them, so much so that it is common to play with them by writing them with a different meaning.(Other times not so much, they are actually spelling mistakes.) :laughing:
Here on the forum I avoid making this type of joke precisely because of the possible interpretations, and when I do, I generally put a corresponding “smile” so that the intention of what was said is understood. (I’m not always successful but at least I tried. :laughing:)
But in the end, as long as the misunderstanding is cleared up, everything is always fine.
It is important to remember that we are all in an international forum, where probably the majority of members do not have in-depth knowledge of English to create a sentence free of errors and clearly understood by everyone.

This is a great idea, but it brings me a little concern…
When the machine comes to my premises for repair, it is likely that the operator will be attached to the machine. :joy:

Thank you all for your suggestions and ideas, they are realy helpful! :wink: :+1: