Hello: A real newbie to large format Lasers. I have a Gweike with 48" x 36" Bed size. Here is the problem that started out of no where, I I am trying to engrave an object ( approx 4’H x 30" w) with a top left origin at x= 3" Y = 33. With machine origin at bottom left 0,0. Earlier it would print at the location of the coordinates specified here ( X=3" and Y= 33"). But now suddenly it prints close to the coordinates X=0, and Y = 0". Also the engraving and curt is a complete mess. Surprisingly, when I use the “Frame”, the head moves where the object shown on the screen - in the accurate coordinates. But when I start engraving the location is in the complete opposite direction . During the basic troubleshooting. I drew a rectangle of 17" H x 33" W and tried to use Frame. Again, frame shows its going to print ok.. But when I print, it prints Y dimension ( 17" ) correctly but X dimension , instead of printing 33" wide, it barely prints 1" width, makes weird noise and abruptly stops in a location away from the “Home” coordinates. which is 0,0 in my case and same as absolute coordinates. It also shows an error "HARD PROT ERROR, PLEASE PRESS ESC. When I press ESC , it goes back to 0,0. I will certainly appreciate any help I can get. TIA
I’ve used a Ruida 6442g for over 5 years and I’ve never seen that error message. Most of these have two switches that are used to home the machine. My Ruida ignores these inputs after it boots.
Do you actually have limit switches on your machine?
Some of the Gweike machines have custom firmware on the Ruida.
Not sure what to advise… maybe @ednisley or @bernd.dk has a clue to what’s going on.
Hang in there.
Can you provide a link to the machine description so we can find out more about it?
Gewike machines seem to have controllers with custom firmware, so advice based on more common Ruida controllers may not be applicable. Can you provide a picture of the controller inside the machine with the model number visible?
A Hard Prot Error indicates the machine either has limit switches on both ends of the axis travel or has been mis-configured to expect them. Can you confirm that it does have switches on both ends of the axes?
Does the machine home correctly to the left front corner when it is turned on?
Is this a new machine?
Did it work correctly when delivered?
How long did it work correctly before failing as you describe?
We need to know a lot more about the machine before we can offer anything more than general suggestions that may not be relevant in this situation. 
Thank you very much for your response. Since my last problem of receiving the error, the problem got worse - Now the printer head does not move on any of the axis. - neither X nor Y. Whether I try to move it with Lightburn Jog menu or using up and down arrow on the machine. The laser does seem to work on “Pulse” though.
Doubt it’s related to what we’re thinking as far as switches. Not sure what’s causing this, it could be controller related, but even with the limit switches enabled it won’t trigger unless it’s pulled low.
I’ve gotten a lot of error from my Ruida, but have never seen that one.
Sounds like a major part such as a flaky or dying power supply.
Do you have a voltmeter to check the low voltage power supplies? You have to do these checks with the machine failing.
Are there green lights on the motor drivers?
What leds are lit on the Ruida?
Hi Ed: Thank you for responding and your willingness to help. The Gweike machine I have is LC1390N. I purchased it in 2021 but during the winter the laser tube froze and cracked so I did not start using it until April 2025 !! Once I started using it, I did many large and small jobs without any issues until today. After receiving the HARD PROT error, it got even worse and now there is no X- axis or Y axis movement. .
Hi Jack: Thanks very much for responding. I am afraid you might be right. I turned on the machine but don’t see any green lights on on X Driver, Y Driver or Z Driver. I also see that Power supply shows current Output as 0 mA. I did hook up the laser to my laptop but did not start Lightburn. Would that matter? But here are the pictures of what I see.
Don’t say that around the airport 
Get your voltmeter out and check out the power supplies. If it’s not lasing, then there will be no current. My machine is wired with a power switch for everything but the laser power supply (lps), I’d expect it to still have it’s mA meter lit up, as far as power.
I think you’ve got a failed/failing power supply…
Hi Ed: Here is the picture of the controller with its model number. Also I notice that none of the X, Y or Z Driver have any green lights on. Also the origin of my machine is set to Top Right corner ( when you stand in front of the machine. That was the default and I did not changed it and it worked fine until today
Still looks like a dead/dying power supply to me. I have a flashing RUN led number 15 on my Ruida.
The power going to the Ruida and the steppers motors and drivers are usually 24V and power both the controller and motor drivers.
You need a voltmeter to check the supplies.
It took me aa second to figure out what you said about not saying it around the airport !
You sound right, In my case the #15 is NOT Blinking and none of the green lights are ON, which used to be ON earlier. Don’t have my voltmeter but my neighbor has one . Will check it out tomorrow. If the power supply is dead, is it easy to get one? Any particular spec I need tto shop for? TIA
Just read off the existing supply voltage and amperage.
Good luck
The lack of those LEDs tells you the 24 VDC power supply is defective. As @jkwilborn suggests, measuring the supply’s output voltage will confirm the diagnosis; most likely it will be much less than 24 V.
LED 15 on the controller indicates its +5 VDC supply output is active, which means the 24 VDC power supply voltage is high enough to run the controller’s internal step-down converter.
The high-voltage supply for the laser tube has a separate line voltage power input, so it will light up normally.
The 24 VDC power supplies in these laser machines are typically under-specified for the total load, so they tend to fail early. When you buy a replacement, get one with a higher output current rating; doubling the failed power supply’s rating will be about right.