I did buy a led- strip (230v) to my Falcon 2.
When i try to use my new light, it looks terrible in camera page.
Like waves mowing from up to down…What…??
Do i have to buy some different led strip or maybe 12v…
That’s a stroboscopic effect from the LED strip flickering at twice the power line frequency and the video camera shutter speed.
The power line frequency in Europe (where I assume you are) is 50 Hz, so the flicker is 100 Hz. The LEDs will change from bright to dim 100 times each second.
The video camera shutter speed depends on the illumination level, but is generally not synchronized with the power line flicker frequency. As a result, every frame sees a differently illuminated scene and, when those difference vary slowly from frame to frame, you see light and dark waves moving across the screen.
The solution requires running the LEDs from a DC power supply, rather than directly from the AC line. Typical LED strips use 5, 12, or 24 VDC, so you can buy a power supply to match.
The AC powered LED lights in my Basement Shop flicker horribly in my phone’s camera at some values of digital zoom, which seems to affect the shutter speed. I can’t retrofit the place with DC lights, but it makes a mess out of my project photos. 
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Some car lamps (DC) also use this flickering tactic, but to “increase” the output intensity. Following a car with a phone camera, we can see this.
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A pox on the backside of all those headlight designers!
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Very true!
There is an inexpensive system that allows you to recycle a PC power supply, a card that plugs directly into the ATX pin, allowing you to have 3.5 and 12 V optimally for 5 euros! the current is filtered and stabilized, also allows the power supply of relays for air assist, fans to evacuate fumes, etc. I think about recycling when we can!
There are models with digital display and adjustable voltage, so it’s avev a speed or brightness dimmer if your 12v LEDs support the dimm function.
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Hi.
^This.
And preferably a linear, well regulated power supply at that, rather than a nowadays norm switch mode power supply.
There are SMPS devices that offer smooth (enough) voltage available, as well as linear power supplies that cause (high power) leds to flicker just as badly as with a cheap SMPS, but that’s something that is generally well documented, nor advertized.
So it’s pretty much trial and error kind of a deal.
It’s also possible to further filter the output of such a power supply with C and RC filters but requires some knowledge and some tinkering skills.
True, but that tactic is used only when the required light intensity or power draw of the whole system is high.
The flickering (/light ripple) a minor nuisance with automotive lightning outside film industry and surveilance, but an absolute PITA for some people with general lighting.
Fortunately that led (pun intended 
) to EU lighting energy efficiency regulation (EU) 2019/2020 which regulates the allowable flicker in most led light devices.
If You want a totally flicker free LED-light, find one that doesn’t have an internal SMPS, and run it directly from a lead battery.
Most -if not all- modern batteries and power banks use some sort of SMPS to regulate the output.
If You want to use those, choose one that’s approved for audio use.
Regards,
Sam
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a lead battery! It costs a lot of money and you have to recharge it! PC power supplies are much more efficient, regulated and therefore stabilized, new the first price is 10 euros, no need to buy a 500 watts power supply ! Look on the internet how to recycle a PC power supply, otherwise a simple transformer like those that equip your laser engraver will do the job, in fact as long as you do not use LEDs connected directly to the mains (220v or 110v depending on your country) which are low consumption LEDs connected in series there is no current filter. I use a 10w LED strip for aquariums bought for 20 euros new, or I power it with a transformer or I connect it to the output of the dlc32 motherboard, connected to the output of the air assist, or the fan control of the box depending on your machine
For PC power supply, it is really easy for ATX models: just grounding the green wire.
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/blog/convert-atx-psu-to-bench-supply.html
Here is an extensive topic about converting server power supplies (for more serious business than a led strip):
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1292514-How-to-convert-Server-Power-Supplies
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How does this work?
Most digital devices are on or off – how can you exceed 100% pwm or on?
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LED intensity can vary with the voltage. You can actually overdrive the LED for greater intensity, but PWM it to keep the heat down. Due to the retentivity of the eye above 30Hz, it might make the light appear brighter.
Make sense?
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I have disassembled my laser and ordered two new 24v cob led strip
Time will show how it works…
Not by much … it’s a digital device, it’s on or off, if you follow how to use it.
I’d love a link that explains how to drive a 5V led at 6V, even with pwm.
Curious
There are no 5v LED’s. They range from 1.8 to 2.3 volts for a given lumen output depending on color, green requiring the highest voltage.
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There are practically no LED road drivers, just choose the right system, avoid those with an old transformer with windings, take instead the all-electronic models, better secured with a correctly filtered current.
The solution of recycling a PC power supply is an excellent solution, almost free and ecological!
These power supplies provide 3v, 5v and 12v of very high quality and very high safety, I repeat no need to take an oversized power supply!
Exceeding the operating voltage drastically reduces
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In my case. Creality Falcon 2 Pro 40w fully enclosed, has both side fan connector (optional).
I added an old welding smoke vacuum (eccentric fan) under table, which has a hole and this blotter suck whole area of engraver through the steel mesh.I now have all the the necessary parts, now everything has to be installed in place.
Now i already have two 24v connector for led strip, both side the encloser…
I’m excited, how those led strips are going to work, but all in all, this is my hobby, and i have time to retrieve the situation, if something goes wrong…
Thank you all for helping me!!
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The human eye only detects frames if less than 24FPS if the flickering happens more than 3 times in a second…the camera sees but the eye doesn´t.
This flickering tactic is used mostly in two situations:
1- If we briefly overdrive the LED we increase the output ( on and off between safety values sometimes with forced air for cooling).
2- If we underdrive the LED ( mostly on battery ) without any apparent reduction in intensity we get more hours of battery life.
.
3- if we overdrive more this time we notice the flicker, but the LED gives his soul to the creator 
EDIT: Found a bit of info on underdriving and overdriving for LEDs
why use a battery? It’s heavy, bulky, needs to be recharged, it’s expensive and needs to be recycled.
When used, for example, with a flashlight.
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LEDs are current devices. By varying the current, you vary the intensity. In our products, we can change the series resistance to change the current and thus the LED intensity.