I’m trying to plan out a camera setup, but I’m not sure it’ll be possible with my laser.
It’s a 1300x1000, but the door doesn’t open the full depth, meaning a rear overhang.
The top of the inside of the door is about 850 high.
Pics show what I’m talking about. I was thinking maybe I could mount it lower but more pointed toward the rear to get under the overhang.
Anyone else had this issue?
Angling the camera to pull in the entire bed should work. The calibration process reads the dot pattern and adjusts accordingly. You may find it necessary to move the gantry to the opposite end of the travel in order to get the dot card in view. Get the best focus you can on the camera, with the bed at the appropriate height for the focus. I’ve raised or lowered my bed as little as 3 mm and had at least that much scale change in the image width and depth.
I wasn’t happy with the results of my camera mount, although it correctly adjusted and ended up removing the gas struts and replacing them with solid brackets placing the cover in a permanently vertical position.
Ensure you have uniform lighting when you calibrate, to give the camera a good clean shot at the card.
If the rear portion of the bed isn’t visible, it’ll just be excluded from the camera view, but the rest will be usable. I’m working on a head mounted camera system as well, which would possibly be a better fit for your machine. I don’t have a timeline for release yet, but it’s semi-functional already, so possibly a month or a little more.
So considering the whole bed won’t be visible during calibration, what different steps do I take?
E.g. the bed will only be visible for approximately 1300x700 of it, but in lightburn I still want to be able to use 1300x1000.
Means I can position parts toward the front, or atleast use the visible area to locate parts, having them extend into the off camera area.
Also I found the calibration image on the wiki, but when printing it just fits to an A4 page. How do I get it to print the right size?
A4 = 8-1/4 x 11-3/4 inches, 210 x 297 mm
From the documentation for ‘Camera Calibration’: Redirecting...
You will need to download and print the following image: Calibration-Circles.png
The circles image will be approximately 148mm x 105mm (5.8" x 4.1"), and should have at least 6mm (1/4") of white space around the pattern.
The documentation just says print it the size the image is, which comes out as a full a4 page.
Also how do I calibrate the camera when I’m wanting to use the whole bed in lightburn, but the camera won’t see the whole thing?
Technically the printed size doesn’t really matter - what really matters is how big it is in the camera view. You don’t even need to have the camera mounted in the laser to do the lens calibration. Read here:
Yes, but in the video the camera shot comes up the full bed area on lightburn, but when it can’t see the whole bed, it shouldn’t be the whole bed.
Technically,
If the camera isn’t seeing the whole bed, like any other camera, move it further away. They don’t have a zoom adjustment.
No it’s because the door won’t allow the whole bed to be viewed. I outlined that in the op you replied to.
Ok, so what is it exactly that you’re trying to solve here?
The lens calibration has nothing at all to do with the laser, bed size, or anything other than the lens of the camera. You could glue your camera to a wall and calibrate the lens with the dot pattern, then mount the camera in the machine to do the alignment (that’s the part where the machine matters).
You’re not moving the dot pattern to different places on the laser bed, you’re moving it through the different parts of the camera view:
The calibration wants you to place the card pattern so it fills one of those 9 squares in turn, starting with the middle, then the 4 sides, then the 4 corners. Nothing to do with the laser at all.
Ok, well if I can’t position the camera to see the whole bed, do I follow the same steps or is there something different I do?
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