What I am looking for is taking the tabs I have created to connect a jig holder to a work piece.
Basically, how can I make them repeatable for other jobs as well. Connecting left and right then having tabs along the bottom.
What I have displayed took me all afternoon to figure out.
Thinking, (sorry for the grinding sound 
) I might should have saved some of my previous work. It may have made it easier.
Eric
Are you wanting to use the dovetails as a secure point?
I have holes drilled in my table, I make a jig and it’s located by the holes in the table.
Can you be more specific what you want to do?
The answer here would be yes. The left and right panels will get anchored to the feet of the laser. I’ll create work panels to position and hold other work jigs using targets for repeat positioning.
I am also trying to learn new techniques to aid me down the road.
I have a makeshift honeycomb under my laser and do not want to try and drill holes into it.
I actually use pins in my CNC spoil board.
Thanks for the reply.
Eric
I tend to use cardboard as my jig material, keyed off a corner “L” piece that is fixed to my waste board near the 0,0 location. I weight the card board down with 3/8" acorn nuts to keep the air assist from moving the jig.
Alternately, I will staple a piece of card board tona piece of heavy scrap wood that will index on the “L” shaped witness post.
There are many skins on that particular cat.
My waste board
I had never seen this style waste board. NICE!
All I want to do is duplicate my dovetail pattern repeatedly at the bottom of the current boards and future projects boards exactly.
If it helps, I have a 10W Mecpow laser.
Usually the term waste board has with it connotations the item will end up wasted.
I wouldn’t spend >$100 for something that is going to get wasted.
Just my opinion. 
I think the intent is to use it as some kind of versatile or variable jig.
If you can come up with a single tab / socket pair that matches correctly, store it in the Art Library and deploy as needed.
To get consistent spacing, use the Grid Array tool to replicate that pair with exact linear spacing, then splice them into the perimeter of whatever you’re building.
I’d try really hard to lay out the tabs symmetric with the midlines of the shape, so I could snap / align the arrays to the shape without numeric fiddling.
If you design the tab sticking out of a rectangle, you can align the rectangle edge with the main perimeter, then Weld the shapes to put the tabs in place.
You can convert the socket into a positive shape (similar to the tab-on-a-rectangle), align it so the fake tab sticks into the main shape, then Difference it to leave the socket.
You can add construction shapes / targets / lines on Tool layers to the tab design to simplify snapping them into place.
I do not understand “socket pair”?
Anyway, I believe I came up with what you are inferring. As I go about other things around the house I sometimes come up with ideas that may work in what I am trying to figure out.
I created a square and triangle combination for size and depth duplication. Square is a Tool from the pallet and triangle using black. The square is placed to accurately place the depth of the tab, both the tab and the subtraction. Then used the array tool.
I have one half of my holder complete with Boolean Subtraction. However on the second half, for some reason, Boolean Subtract isn’t working properly? Including image and file for input as to why.
Thank you in advance,
Eric
Is this the result you’re getting with subtract?
The tab sticks out of one side of the joint and fits into the recessed socket on the other side. If I knew more about joinery, I might know the proper terms. 
Ah… Got it! Thanks.
Weird thing, I had saved the project and closed Lightburn.
I reopened Lightburn a minute ago and it worked fine not doing anything.
FYI, I always use CTRL + B to open the selection tool. For some reason it was acting up. Restarting must have corrected the issue.
Thank you everyone for the input and assistance.
Eric
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