Not that I’m aware of… I did material tests on stainless dog tags and got some relatively good looking colors…
If I apply the same settings to a piece of the supposedly same material, but thicker… I don’t get the same color range I did for the thinner piece.
I prefer the term annealing…
It does make sense… you are heating the metal, whatever the heat is for the color needs to be reproduced. Stainless conducts heat very well. The thicker and larger the piece of metal, the more energy required to get that area up to temperature… You also induce warpage in sheets.
You should be able to find a lower frequency that will give you black markings… Run the material test on the mug… Use the same speed and vary the power and frequency values…
You will be more limited without the ability to change the q-pulse width… but you can still work with the stainless mugs.
This is a chunk of steel I picked up for nothing at the local steel supply yard…
It’s not really color, it’s the interference of the light waves bouncing off different layers and the mixing causes the change in frequency meaning a change in reflected color. If you view it from a different angle, sometimes the whole thing disappears…
There is a video out there somewhere that he figured out the CMYB, separated the colors in the photo in one of the applications, burnt them onto stainless and ended up with a pretty good color image…
I’m far from that… 
