What would be the best power and speed settings for engraving images in lightburn, mine is a 80W laser.
Unfortunately, it does not work as with a washing machine, where you can put program wool to wash your knit sweater safely and cleanly with.
Maybe the really expensive machines are better suited for it, they come partly with some pre-programmed settings and material that you need to buy from their company and it will give you some automation of the process.
But in my opinion, you need to get to know your machine and LightBurn very well and do many tests to gather your own, machine and material-specific experiences.
There are many good LightBurn tuturials online, start here and study LightBurn’s fine manual.
Enjoy
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@bernd.dk I’m doing trials now in lightburn , I just thought if a certain settings have worked for others and it would just work for me too and in that case I may have saved some time.
I understand that well, but even if you would have written what kind of machine you have and what kind of pictures and what kind of material you have in mind, the values of others will only be of limited use to you.
It is not badly meant, but it is unfortunately the facts as it is. (or as I see it)
PS. If you find someone here with the same machine and roughly the same age of the CO2 tube, you can of course use the data and experiences from this user as a kind of reference.
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This must be a new machine to you. As @bernd.dk stated, even the same machines on the same material will not do exactly the same damage.
The lack of information and the broad scope of the question makes it impossible to even ballpark an answer.
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bad-powerScale Basic Power-10-90 Speed-20-100.lbrn (60.9 KB)
You should start with a Powerscale test before trying to make a project.
thank you,I’ll do that
what should be the optimum dpi for the template
As far as I know there isn’t a set DPI. But based off my machines I would say 250 -300 is a good test. It’s not about the DPI, it’s about learning your machines capabilities as far speed and power. The DPI you get will depend on a lot of factors including lenses, material etc.
Perhaps someone else can chime in.
My Chinese laser claims 2400 DPI but really not too sure about that.
Search the forum for images and you’ll find a lot of settings that you should test, especially in the “finished creations” area. Settings are not a hard and fast rule.
Can you produce a dot of 0.01mm?
25.4 mm/inch / 2400 dots/inch = 0.01mm required size dots.
I don’t know, that’s why I’m asking…
I know I have a problem at that size.
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I know you have a few lenses. Now that I have it up and running, what lenses do you recommend? I am sure I am limited to around 300 mm/sec until I get the Russ lightweight head.
It depends on what you are up to. I have a 4", 2", 1.5" (stock) and a compound. Old photo… Rolled steel plate that replaced the honeycomb is visible.
I have the compound lens that I love for engraving, makes the smallest dot. Wasted one by some detailed work on the back of the mirror, it coated the lens. Probably should have bumped the pressure I guess. Sure can’t produce a 0.01mm dot 
I think this group was the 2" lens.
Here’s an idea of how much junk comes back.
Looking from m2 into the head… about 30 seconds…
You can see all the doors open and the access panels removed. It runs most of the time that way.
All of the flashing is destruction of the material that is virtually going right back at the lens. Especially with the backing on a mirror. Always wiping it off the nozzle.
This is 4mm flooring plywood with the 2" lens again. Difficult to see in the video is the stream of cut smoke coming from underneath the material. It’s sitting on 5mm magnets.
This is the compound lens setup
Variation of setups available…
I do use the 4" for cutting thick, > 5mm stock. The most used are the compound and the 2"…
Might want to browse The Russ Formula for successful photo engraving… 2 page pdf.
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